Thanks for the two replies so far. I went to Home Depot, and found that the hinge I'd copied into the mail was SERIOUSLY stiff to move.
I found another, 8" (not 10, sadly) black decorative hinge that was better for three reasons: 1) Very easy hinging; no stiffness; 2) 3 holes, all in locations I can use; 3) Lightweight. I think what I'm going to try is to actually use _both_ a tape hinge, plus the metal hinges. I'll have to repair my tape hinge on-playa, but I suspect I can do that without trouble. Hopefully by putting the load across both hinge types I can keep either from having operational issues, and keep from tearing the foam apart as Switfly experienced. (The only thing I'm still a bit worried about is alignment; can it all work?) Thanks. I'll still appreciate any new comments people have. -jb On Sunday, July 20, 2014 5:09:42 PM UTC-4, Jay Batson wrote: > > Hey, all - > > Last year I made a Camp Danger yurt. Loved it. > > I made the door Danger-style - a square door cut in the middle of a side, > not extending to the edge. I used a tape hinge, and Neodymium magnets for > a latch. > > By the end of the burn, the door was hanging crooked; the tape had started > to come loose. Photo at end of post below. > > Does anybody have any thoughts about attaching two strap hinges directly > to the door & yurt? I'm considering two of these along the hinge edge: > > > <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xWMrdNtxmLw/U8ws3wkipkI/AAAAAAAAJX0/TUfe1tdqkCI/s1600/StrapHinge.jpg> > > Some details: > > > 1. I'd use at least 3 (if not all 4) hex bolts to attach each side, > drilling through the yurt foam, and using big fender washers on the back. > Lots of bolts = better distribution of door weight across all the holes > through the R-Max > 2. I would NOT transport the Yurt with these attached. I'd attach > them during construction (on-Playa), and remove prior to packing. > 3. My yurt is currently NOT WITH ME, and I won't have any ability to > work on it before I get to construction on-playa. I'll be fitting them for > the first time when putting the yurt up. (It's in-storage in a container, > and I'll pick it up on-playa.) > 4. I'm pretty handy. I'm also obsessive about getting things perfect. > My yurt is built reasonably well - cuts are straight, but the angle of > the > bevel varies. (Grrr.) > 5. I acknowledge there will be a little R-Max Moop that appears when I > drill my holes. I will capture it to the best of my ability. > > My key concern is whether people think the holes will start to widen, > hinges sag, and in-turn make the dor sag, defeating the purpose. I'm also > concerned that getting the hinges on so they actually work; can I get them > straight so they aren't fighting each other's angles when they open? Note > that I'd prefer to NOT have to add any "strengthening material" under the > hinge - metal plates, 1/4" ply, etc. Just makes preparing more complex. > > My alternative is to rebuild the tape hinge on-playa. I'd rather have a > better, longer-term solution. > > Anybody have any comments? Good idea, bad idea, ? > > (Photo of yurt with sagging door.) > > > <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x2sY31pDp0I/U8wu0ZPpYSI/AAAAAAAAJYA/uBr0TcCTSgo/s1600/SaggingYurtDoor.jpg> > > Close-up of hinge: > > > <https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KtsiBbaiI_c/U8wvGiTmnRI/AAAAAAAAJYI/5fG2cVnyPm0/s1600/LooseHinge.jpg> > > > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
