Here's a suggestion for the jigsaw: use it with a jig! (This just occurred to 
me, but I can't wait to try it out.)

The idea is this: you're cutting a WHOLE LOT of 15° bevels (240 linear feet for 
an H12), all with exactly the same manner: precisely on a corner, cutting 
straight from end to end of your panels. For this much production, it's worth 
building a jig just for one yurt. For more than one, you've got the key element 
of a production line!

All you would need is 1) a thin, roughly 6" square piece of plywood, and 2) a 
6" piece of 2x4. Put a hole in the center of the plywood for the jigsaw blade 
and attach the angled jigsaw to it. Next, cut a 15° corner along the length of 
the 2x4, just a hair more than the kerf of the blade. The goal is for the bevel 
to remove material starting exactly at the corner of the panel.

Does this make sense?


On Aug 8, 2014, at 12:42 PM, [email protected] wrote:

> Jigsaw.  Most of them have an adjustable angle, up to 45 degrees.
> 
> I used this one, $40:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-4-8-Amp-Variable-Speed-Jigsaw-JS481L/202854039
> The angle adjustment came loose in the process of making the yurt,
> purchased new for it.  Fortunately, it was easy to take the bottom plate
> off, and tighten the relevant nut.
> 
> For the angles that were marked on the saw, I just used that - 45 and 15
> degrees.  For the 38 degree cut, I used a protractor, lined up with the
> seam on the front of the saw, and the blade.  It was kind of awkward, but
> it doesn't need to be perfect - it works without any beveling.
> 
> You can just line your cuts up to where the blade will go through, but I
> found it worked very well to use a guide board (to keep the line straight,
> instead of just using a chalked line), and a caliper to set the distance
> from the edge to the guide board - mostly because it was quicker than
> setting the distance with the saw itself, but I think also more accurate.
> I used my caliper to measure the distance from the edge of the saw base
> to the near side of the blade, so it would just barely not cut any off
> of the top side of the foil.  I think the straightness you gain with a
> guide board is probably a lot more important if you're going to take
> the time to bevel.  And you can get a 10' board from Home Depot for $7
> (just check it for straightness against the floor).  I had somebody stand
> on that board while I was cutting, which meant I needed another similar
> board underneath for support - but I already had it around.
> 
> It probably would've been worth getting a couple saw horses, to reduce all
> the bending needed for the cuts.  And that would have allowed me to clamp
> the guide board on.  Initially, I duct taped the guide board in place, but
> after sitting in my barn for a while, I guess with the extra heat, peeling
> the duct tape off was removing foil.
> 
> A lot of this info is on http://www.chaosreigns.com/burningman/h8yurt/
> 
> On 08/07, Natalie Spilger wrote:
>>   Darxus,
>> 
>>   How did you bevel the edges.  That is so cool and I really want to do it,
>>   but cannot find a efficient solution.
>> 
>>   ~  Natalie
>> 
>>   On Thursday, August 7, 2014 7:25:03 AM UTC-7, Darxus wrote:
>> 
>>     On 08/07, Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project) wrote:
>>>    I think we should probably put that on the wiki. I've been
>>     generically
>>>    anti-pyramid for a while, and actually we really should have
>>     documented
>>>    them and put it up too.
>> 
>>     I'm interested in hearing more about that opinion.  I was originally
>>     planning to do an H12, but then was asked to use less space for myself,
>>     in
>>     a camp along the esplanade, which I feel is reasonable.  Plus, perfect
>>     wood
>>     floor from packing material.
>> 
>>     I feel like all my friends are building 6' stretch hexayurts.
>> 
>>     On 08/07, Lucas González wrote:
>>>    you mean http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_H8 ?
>> 
>>     Thanks, I'll fill this out (and link it from the existing heading on
>>     http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_playa )?
>> 
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