I would use white 4200, not clear silicone. I would apply a thin coat to the 
mating surface, install the handrail with the sealant wet, let it dry, then add 
a small fillet bead at the base. I am sort of in the middle of the same project 
(only it is all the external teak, plus a bunch from the cabin). I used Bristol 
Finish. My current plan, on all the pieces that require plugs, is to:

1)      Scuff the parts with 220 to remove the sheen on all the surfaces that 
are accessible after installation.

2)      Install the parts with a thin coat of white 4200 on the mating surface.

3)      Install the plugs with waterproof carpenters glue, and sand to flush.

4)      Mask the boat around the teak.

5)      Put on more coats of Bristol, starting with a small area around the 
plug, and increasing the wetted area until the last coat or two covers the 
whole piece. I anticipate using 4 more coats.

6)      Let that dry, then remove the masking.

7)      Put a small fillet of white 4200 at the interface between the teak and 
the deck.
Yes, it's a lot of work. I will never, ever do this again.

Keith Sneddon
#4760, "Are We There Yet?"
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of 
[email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 10:42 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [IC27A] (no subject)


Hello all, I have removed the teak hand rails to refinish then. When re 
installing, I was going to use clear silicone to re bed them. What is the best 
technique to use? I could apply the silicone and replace the rail when the 
silicone is still wet or is it best to let a ring of silicone dry on the hull 
around the screw hole and then place the rail after it completely dry. Any 
suggestions would be appreciated.

Ted Pinelli


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