Above the waterline try Sonneborn NP-1. (Polysulfide/ Urethane) I use this product on commercial window installations. It stays pliable, is toolable with a little dawn dish soap and water or non ammonia window cleaner and most importantly it DOES NOT LEAK! I have not tried it below the waterline so I cant recommend or discourage its use there. The manufacturer will have to advise you there.
John Presler Hull # 93 "Keewadinoquay" ________________________________ From: John Downing <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Tue, September 7, 2010 11:10:37 AM Subject: Re: [IC27A] (no subject) I would never, ever use silicon to bed hardware. There is a condition known as "silicon contamination" that occurs when it is applied - nothing else will stick without grinding it ALL away. There are several marine-grade products out there for ~$18 a tube that are designed for just this application. That said, I use non-marine grade caulks and adhesives above the waterline, cuz I'm a cheapskate. And maybe a fool in the end.... John On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 10:42 AM, <[email protected]> wrote: > >Hello all, I have removed the teak hand rails to refinish then. When re >installing, I was going to use clear silicone to re bed them. What is the best >technique to use? I could apply the silicone and replace the rail when the >silicone is still wet or is it best to let a ring of silicone dry on the hull >around the screw hole and then place the rail after it completely dry. Any >suggestions would be appreciated. > >Ted Pinelli > >
