Many years ago I spent many days at the Art Institute of Chicago studying
their Milanese and Flemish tape laces from the 17th and 18th centuries.  I
noticed that there were actually 2 classes of Milanese designs.  In one the
decorated tape was always the same width and the number of bobbins remained
constant, as the tape curlicued all over the lace.  The other class looked the
same in terms of the overall impact of the design. A casual observer, or
someone who didn't know bobbin lace technique, would have thought they were
all one class, stylistically.  But what I could see in the 2nd group is the
tapes changed width beyond what could be accounted for by fancy stitches
inside the tape. And these usually also had motifs that started and ended. In
other words they were actually part laces (sectional laces) rather than tape
laces (braid laces).  The museum labeled these part laces exactly the same as
the pure Milanese or Flemish tape laces.

So from a historical viewpoint both constant width and variable width, and
discrete motifs were all part of the antique Milanese lace.

Lorelei Halley

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