I should have added that I start with a damp piece which has been liberally sprayed with water...
Sent from my iPad > On Jan 24, 2016, at 4:28 PM, Clay Blackwell <[email protected]> wrote: > > I have blocked several scarves, both bobbin lace and knitted lace. My > preference is to use blocking wires. I have a special set of interlocking > blocks that can be configured to cover under the scarf. The wires are each > 36" long, and they are closely woven through the edge of your scarf and then > pinned into the foam with the wire ends overlapping and secured by pins. My > preference is to stretch the lace just slightly, so that after the pins and > wires are removed, the lace can relax to the size it was designed to be. > > If this is the only scarf you think you will ever make, the cost of the wire > set (around $20) and the foam block set (somewhere between $15 and $20) may > be more than you want to spend. In that case, go to a good LYS (local yarn > shop) and see if they offer the blocking service for a fee. Another option > is to check with members of local lace and knitting clubs to see if someone > there can help you! > > I have even used this system on a lovely shawl I knitted for a dear > lacemaking teacher of mine. This shawl was triangular, and had a straight > edge and two pointy scalloped edges. I used wires in the usual manner on the > straight edge, and on the scalloped edge used them to create a smooth line > between the body of the shawl and the pointy edge treatment! The points were > then defined by carefully placed pins. The result was lovely, and has lasted > for years! > > Clay > Clay Blackwell > Still snow-bound in Virginia, USA > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 24, 2016, at 4:05 PM, Lorelei Halley <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> Julie >> >> I think pinning it at foot long intervals is not a good idea. You will end >> up with pointy scallops. Elizabeth Kurella's method works better, I think. >> >> Lay the dripping wet lace on a clean waterproof surface. Use your fingers to >> stretch the lace into the shape it should have. Leave it along completely >> until it is totally dry. Water tension will stick the lace to the surface. >> You will end up with a lace that is 95 % of its original condition. >> >> Also, I would recommend cool water , not warm. >> >> Please post a picture on our flickr page. I would love to see it. >> >> Lorelei >> >> - >> To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: >> unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to >> [email protected]. Photo site: >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to > [email protected]. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to [email protected]. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
