Wait. One more thing. did you say you were ??? stopping the movement of the
router between cuts???
5. rotate the work piece 1 revolution.
6. Move router abour 5/8" to the right
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until reaching the head end of the work piece.
The ridges can easily be felt and are not just a bit of fuzz. They don't sand
off very well at all.
Perhaps I'm reading it wrong? I am tired... I think of it like jogging. You
Never stop, you have to just move slower when you are tired. other wise, it
just doesn't work. I think your lines are from stopping... ("Man" I'm going to
bed now. I'm not even making since, to my self at this min.) ;-p
Good night.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "CURTIS GEORGE" <curtgeo...@wowway.com>
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 12:41:54 AM
Subject: Re: Accurate setup
HI Jim
There has been a lot of good information given here on your topic.
Have you tried to make one very light pass on the wood and see the results?
Yes set-up and alignment is important, and making sure that the router bit is
true too. BUT for what I see form your picture it could just be your feed rate,
and or perhaps hogging off to much wood in the final pass. (how much wood was
removed on the last pass?)
Before I had my motor drive, I use to get best results by turning the spindle
two-three time for one rev. of the carriage. ( that took a lot of work,and a
little skill to keep the tempo uniformed. but did have good results. )
Another way or moving the carriage by hand and turning the spindle with the
crank handle.
Today I have two motors on my machine, one for the spindle and the second on
for the carriage movement, I get the best results, running to two motors at the
same time, (no gears linkage.) the spindle moves something like 80 rpm and the
carriage crawls along the wood. (maybe a 1/2 or under per rev. of the spindle?
Lets, just say it moves SLOWLY.) I get Very good results with this method.
Bill. a while back hooked up two different sized sprockets onto his machine
with a chain. as was able to get a 4-1 (??? I think?) gear ratio that made a
very nice cut. (Bill feel free to chime in on this one Please.)
Jim. its called Trial and error method. Try,try and try again, there is no such
thing as failure, You just need to learn what doesn't work,and then don't do
that again ! ;-)
Its late.
Good night, and good luck on your practicing.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Riggen" <jrigge...@gmail.com>
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 11:30:22 AM
Subject: Re: Accurate setup
First off, thank you all for your comments. I am learning a lot.
The accuracy I am concerned with is that of the setup. How accurate does the
setup have to be to get rid of the ridges that remain after I turn the work
piece to diameter.
The attached photos will (I hope) show the ridges.
The process I am using is:
1. Set the bit height,
2. start at the tail end,
3. place the center of the bit about 1/2" to the rear of the center of the
cylinder,
4. router carriage fixed,
5. rotate the work piece 1 revolution.
6. Move router abour 5/8" to the right
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until reaching the head end of the work piece.
The ridges can easily be felt and are not just a bit of fuzz. They don't sand
off very well at all.
On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 8:17 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills <
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com > wrote:
my two cents...nine thousandths, .009, to me is an acceptable tolerance for a
piece done on a legacy machine...there are times when we are cutting up some
solids for a job and overnight I have seen a difference of thirty thousandths,
.030 or 1/32",the next day...I have even gotten drawings from architects that
had measurements with 1/64th inch dimensions and just had to shake my head,
LOL...and of course, those were all computer generated drawings...as far as the
corner spec's go, the greatest difference there being thirty thousandths, .030,
1/32", so if you wanted to tweak that a bit you would most likely get better
results...but like I said, to expect metal-turning lathe tolerances on a legacy
( i.e. .001), might be unrealistic...even hand sanding can disrupt anyone's
tolerances...bill's four block method is what we do and if we are off a hair,
we don't sweat it...just one person's opinion here...joe biunno
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