Warming the air increases its ability to hold water, therefore the relative
humidity will decrease as the air warms.

When the air cools, its ability to hold water decreases, raising the
relative humidity.  

Thus, humidity is relative to the temperature.  This is why weather
forecasters have switched from telling us the relative humidity to telling
us the dew point, a more useful piece of information.

When air temperature falls to the dew point it is holding all the water it
can.  If it cools any more fog and dew will result as water condenses from
vapor to liquid.  

More to our point, any object (portholes, hatches, etc) inside a boat that
have a temperature lower than the dew point inside your boat will condense
water on them.  

You can measure dew point with a sling hygrometer, basically two
thermometers, one wet and one dry, that you swing rapidly around.  The
difference in the two temperatures in the breeze can tell you the dew point.

Electric space heaters heat both the air and the moisture in the air by
contact with the hot (or warm) parts, whether using a fan or natural
convection flow.  Warm objects also radiate infrared radiation that is
absorbed by whatever objects absorb the radiation.

The main difference between cube heaters (including all the pricey
variations) and the radiators is that the cubes are small, have a noisy
fan, produce rapid warmth and because the hot part is concentrated can set
things on fire and are easy to store.  The radiators are large, silent,
slow to heat and because the hot part is spread out, safe from fire and
take up much more space.  

They both can produce the same amount of heat, 1500 watts max.

It has been the collective opinion of the List over the years that the
best, and most expensive (surprise, surprise!), system is hydronic or
circulating hot water.


Every year about this time there appears a thread about heat, humidity and
condensation inside boats in northern climates.  Unfortunately, the most
satisfactory solution is also the most difficult (expensive, troublesome). 
Recall that any object whose temperature is below the dew point will create
dew (circular definition?).  That is to say, every object or material
inside your boat that has a temperature below the dew point of the air
inside your boat WILL become wet.

You can lower the dew point of the air inside your boat, or your can raise
the temperature of the surfaces inside your boat.  NOTHING ELSE will do the
job.  You are dealing with laws of nature.  The are called LAWS of nature
for a reason. 

Raising the air temperature will not affect the dew point.  The relative
humidity will rise and he air will feel drier, but objects below the dew
point will still get wet, i.e. Kool-Aid pitchers on a summer day.

Aboard Bandersnatch, because I built her myself, I had the opportunity of
installing insulation before or while I built the joinery so the living
quarters are insulated with two to three inches of foam.  The only places I
have condensation is the windows near the berth which we deal with by
sopping up the water daily with paper towels.

You can install insulation on your boat and because the inside surface of
the insulation is the same temperature as the air inside the boat you will
not have condensation, however, any objects the insulation is covering, if
the interior air can get there, will be wet.

I have found Damp Rid to be useful for removing small amounts of water over
long periods from seldom opened spaces, such as hanging lockers and other
storage areas.  Perhaps if you could make air-tight foam boxes duct-taped
around cold places such as skylights and portholes, you could put a Damp
Rid bucket in there and dry out the space.



We do not heat the boat, we go south and put on more clothes.   



Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying Julington Creek FL
N30 07.68 W081 38.47


> What I understand is that it doesn't dry the air but uses the humidity to
help transport the heat to those spots around the room /boat 



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