My understanding is - Weight (density) wins when stopping sound - Surface configuration does have an affect on the high frequencies - You don't want: 1) Physical contact between the surface receiving the sound and the surface on on your side of the wall 2) Any arerobic connection _at all_ between the noise space and your space. High freqs go through tiny holes, just like mice.
You need to fill, plug, gasket and caulk the H*** out of your bulwarks. Electrical wires and plumbing are serious problems; the bilge connection is a MAJOR problem. Lead/foam work well when meticulously installed; cement board can work but is harder to install so it is isolated from the quite space. Lots on this topic. Google. Cheers, Rufus > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Peter Kafer > Sent: 07/20/11 07:08 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: [Liveaboard] Engine soundproofing > > I would like to add insulation and soundproofing to the engine compartment on > Now or Never!, a Pearson 323. I have access to quite a bit of duct board (1 > inch thick, foil faced fiberglass insulation). Is there any reason I should > not use that? How is it different from similar products specifically aimed > at the marine market? > > thanks > Peter > s/v Now or Never! > _______________________________________________ Liveaboard mailing list [email protected] To adjust your membership settings over the web http://liveaboardonline.com/mailman/listinfo/liveaboard To subscribe send an email to [email protected] To unsubscribe send an email to [email protected] The archives are at http://www.liveaboardonline.com/pipermail/liveaboard/ To search the archives http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] The Mailman Users Guide can be found here http://www.gnu.org/software/mailman/mailman-member/index.html
