Thanks for the info. I have to get a slight curve - about a 1 1/2" cord depth
in the windows, (about 30x18) in the 3/8" plexi. Any ideas?
--
S/V ORYOKI
Philip & Marilyn Lange
AE4OV KD4JRC
Currently on the hill - Beaufort NC
Is this a one-way curve - that is, one side is flat, and the right-angle side
is curved?
If so, it's relatively easy. I did a compound curve in my 24x30x3/8 aft hatch
window I installed (making a hump in the middle, so rain couldn't puddle and
perhaps act as a magnifying glass, potentially - really! - starting a fire
below) by supporting the corners and weighting the center, over a few weeks.
If yours is one-way, support the straight ends and depress the center with
enough weight, evenly distributed (I used grass feed/fertilizer in a 30# bag
for my 24x30 pane; it was ~5-6" short of covering the entire thing) to make it
move evenly, and leave it in the sun (cover so it doesn't get rained in, if you
like) and check for deflection every couple of days by lifting the weight from
it to see how far it rebounds.
The guy who sold me the pane, who does all sorts of hatch glass renewal
([email protected]), told me how to do it; it's called cold forming.
Amusingly, I'd gone quite a bit too far, making it difficult to open my sliding
hatch without totally destroying the doghouse lip (or scratching my glass if I
didn't), so I had to weight it again, but this time reducing the hump. It came
out perfectly.
Pix of the deflection which I had to overcome
(http://justpickone.org/skip/gallery/index.php?dispsize=Original&mode=view&album=Flying+Pig+Refit+2011%2FAft+Hatch+Glass%2FRedo+-+Caulk+Fouled+by+Incorrect+Cleaner%21&pic=PICT1260.JPG),
and my project can be seen in the "aft hatch glass" section of my 2011 refit
in the gallery in my signature block. I blew the original installation by
cleaning with what is a cleanup solvent instead of the rubbing alcohol I should
have used, and wound up doing it again. I used Dupont 975, a commercial
skyscraper window goop which Tony sold me; again, pix can be seen in that
gallery.
I don't know how you are securing the windows; if you are screwing down a
frame, you should be able to overcome a slight under or overbend, I'd think.
Holding the pane against where you're going to mount it and testing for flex
will tell you. If you use 975, plan on not disturbing it for a couple of weeks
minimum to assure full cure. It will skin relatively quickly in hot weather,
and humidity accelerates the cure, too, but you should be able to tool it
easily if you work quickly, and cleanup at the time is a snap with mineral
spirits (be VERY careful not to get it into the work area, though!)
HTH
L8R
Skip, working on the boat, currently in rudder shaft pit remediation...
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
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