Is the dome the conductive rubber type? There are a few tricks to getting them to conduct properly again. The simplest is to clean the surface well and use a soft graphite pencil to cover over the conductive surface. To the more complex using Aquadag (the stuff used as electrostatic paint) painted onto the rubber to increase the conductivity.
Finding a replacement rubber dome might be possible at least harvested from an older style keyboard. From: M100 <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> on behalf of David Boyd <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Reply-To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Date: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 6:58 PM To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Subject: Re: [M100] Need a M102 keyswitch Yes, I took the keyswitch apart. M102 keyswitches, at least mine, are rubber domes internally. I removed the dome and cleaned the contacts as well as I could — no luck. The key will record presses if I press down very hard and then rock the key forward and back, which is why I re-flowed the solder, without success. Possibly I will swap it for the “code” key, since I rarely use that, but I’d prefer a replacement key. If I find a good modern replacement, I might do all of them. On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 16:01 Fugu ME100 <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Have you tried removing the key cap and cleaning it internally? The key caps can be removed very, very carefully. I had a bad M100 key that would not work even after externally using cleaner, took it apart to find a dead spider blocking the contacts. The key caps are locked to the main PCB part by two plastic tabs they need to be eased open very gently, I used a dental tooth pick. You can see how the plastic key cap is locked to the base by examining the keys near the edge of the keyboard. Once the key cap is removed you should be able to take out the spring and metal disc, just remember how it all goes back together :) Then clean the inside with a cotton bud soaked in contact cleaner. Hopefully there is some debris internally blocking the contact. If the plastic locks are correctly open it should take no force to remove the key cap. If it is still refusing to move then it has not been unlocked do not use any strong force the plastic will break. Oh make sure the key cap is the right way round before reassembling otherwise you get to practice the skill again :) The keys are really simple on the M100 and I assume the T102 are similar. ________________________________ From: M100 <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> on behalf of David Boyd <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 02:13 To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> Subject: [M100] Need a M102 keyswitch Hello everyone, Has anyone got a parts 102 and would be willing to part with a keyswitch? My ‘B’ key has failed, and I’ve tried switch cleaner and reflowing the solder joints including the diodes with no luck. Failing that, is there a compatible keyswitch available commercially? — Dave Boyd -- -- Dave Boyd Hey! Just for fun, copy this line to your sig file! -- -- Dave Boyd Hey! Just for fun, copy this line to your sig file!
