Pure speculation, but I wonder if ultrasonic cleaning of balky switches would do any good?
... On 1/26/18, Jim Anderson <[email protected]> wrote: >> -----Original Message----- >> >> My keyswitch has been restored to service. I carefully scraped (with my >> fingernail) the surface of the graphite pad to expose a new layer, and >> that seems to have worked. Thanks to all for advice. > > Just as a general question, since there was some good advice on this thread > on restoring the normal keyswitches: I had a problem with the F8 key on my > 'best' M100 (its only remaining problem was the F8 key). I couldn't see any > non-destructive way of taking the tiny F-key switches apart, so I ended up > desoldering it and swapping it with the 'LABEL' keyswitch. (I was going to > steal a keyswitch from one of the parts machines, but their switches have a > different click feel and I didn't want my best machine to have a different > feel on the F8 compared to the other function keys.) > > The switch undoubtedly has filth inside and/or the conductive pad needs > cleaning, but without a way of getting the switch apart that knowledge > doesn't help me. The swap was a satisfactory solution for me because the > key works intermittently (requires a firm press, and sometimes makes contact > multiple times during a single press, which is annoying when trying to quit > just one level out of something, like in UR-2 or Sardine). It's fine as > 'LABEL' because I don't often use that key, and there is very little > consequence to multiple presses of 'LABEL' versus any of the other keys in > that row - just keep hitting it until the toggling stops in the state you > wanted. :) > > > > > > > > jim >
