> -----Original Message-----
>
> My keyswitch has been restored to service. I carefully scraped (with my
> fingernail) the surface of the graphite pad to expose a new layer, and
> that seems to have worked. Thanks to all for advice.
Just as a general question, since there was some good advice on this thread on
restoring the normal keyswitches: I had a problem with the F8 key on my 'best'
M100 (its only remaining problem was the F8 key). I couldn't see any
non-destructive way of taking the tiny F-key switches apart, so I ended up
desoldering it and swapping it with the 'LABEL' keyswitch. (I was going to
steal a keyswitch from one of the parts machines, but their switches have a
different click feel and I didn't want my best machine to have a different feel
on the F8 compared to the other function keys.)
The switch undoubtedly has filth inside and/or the conductive pad needs
cleaning, but without a way of getting the switch apart that knowledge doesn't
help me. The swap was a satisfactory solution for me because the key works
intermittently (requires a firm press, and sometimes makes contact multiple
times during a single press, which is annoying when trying to quit just one
level out of something, like in UR-2 or Sardine). It's fine as 'LABEL' because
I don't often use that key, and there is very little consequence to multiple
presses of 'LABEL' versus any of the other keys in that row - just keep hitting
it until the toggling stops in the state you wanted. :)
jim
