My keyswitch has been restored to service. I carefully scraped (with my fingernail) the surface of the graphite pad to expose a new layer, and that seems to have worked. Thanks to all for advice.
On Thu, Jan 25, 2018 at 3:51 PM Josh Malone <[email protected]> wrote: > That's a latching switch though, right? He needs a momentary. Or can > they be converted internally? > > On Thu, Jan 25, 2018 at 3:23 PM, Peter Vollan <[email protected]> > wrote: > > I recommend the "num" key, the numeric keypad is worthless. > > > > > > On 24 January 2018 at 18:58, David Boyd <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Yes, I took the keyswitch apart. M102 keyswitches, at least mine, are > rubber > >> domes internally. I removed the dome and cleaned the contacts as well > as I > >> could — no luck. The key will record presses if I press down very hard > and > >> then rock the key forward and back, which is why I re-flowed the solder, > >> without success. Possibly I will swap it for the “code” key, since I > rarely > >> use that, but I’d prefer a replacement key. If I find a good modern > >> replacement, I might do all of them. > >> On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 16:01 Fugu ME100 <[email protected]> wrote: > >>> > >>> Have you tried removing the key cap and cleaning it internally? > >>> > >>> > >>> The key caps can be removed very, very carefully. I had a bad M100 key > >>> that would not work even after externally using cleaner, took it apart > to > >>> find a dead spider blocking the contacts. The key caps are locked to > the > >>> main PCB part by two plastic tabs they need to be eased open very > gently, I > >>> used a dental tooth pick. You can see how the plastic key cap is > locked to > >>> the base by examining the keys near the edge of the keyboard. Once > the key > >>> cap is removed you should be able to take out the spring and metal > disc, > >>> just remember how it all goes back together :) Then clean the > inside with > >>> a cotton bud soaked in contact cleaner. Hopefully there is some debris > >>> internally blocking the contact. > >>> > >>> > >>> If the plastic locks are correctly open it should take no force to > remove > >>> the key cap. If it is still refusing to move then it has not been > unlocked > >>> do not use any strong force the plastic will break. > >>> > >>> > >>> Oh make sure the key cap is the right way round before reassembling > >>> otherwise you get to practice the skill again :) > >>> > >>> > >>> The keys are really simple on the M100 and I assume the T102 are > similar. > >>> > >>> > >>> ________________________________ > >>> From: M100 <[email protected]> on behalf of David Boyd > >>> <[email protected]> > >>> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 02:13 > >>> To: [email protected] > >>> Subject: [M100] Need a M102 keyswitch > >>> > >>> Hello everyone, > >>> > >>> Has anyone got a parts 102 and would be willing to part with a > keyswitch? > >>> My ‘B’ key has failed, and I’ve tried switch cleaner and reflowing the > >>> solder joints including the diodes with no luck. Failing that, is > there a > >>> compatible keyswitch available commercially? > >>> > >>> — > >>> Dave Boyd > >>> -- > >>> -- > >>> Dave Boyd > >>> > >>> Hey! Just for fun, copy this line to your sig file! > >> > >> -- > >> -- > >> Dave Boyd > >> > >> Hey! Just for fun, copy this line to your sig file! > -- -- Dave Boyd Hey! Just for fun, copy this line to your sig file!
