Welcome to the club! Congratulations and Thanks on/for restoring a M102. I have a 102 as my "daily driver" and hope to also repair a couple of problematic 100s in the near future. Thanks, also, for the part numbers. I'm debating cap-vs-nimh for my restores. My recent experience with a capped 100 is leaning me in that direction.
-Josh On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 12:11 PM, Andy Lawrence <[email protected]> wrote: > Hello All, > > I was born in 1975, and throughout the 80s I looked forward to the annual > Radio Shack catalogs, each year drooling over the T100/2s etc! Well a > couple weeks ago I was cruising eBay and ran across a busted T102 and > snatched it up cheap. Completed the following to fix it up: > > - Restored normal functionality by re-soldering the DC jack. > - Burned y2k ROM, thanks to GregS for pointing out the file location. I > was planning to burn on a stash of old 27c256s, but appears I've used all > of those, rather than eBaying surplus I simply ordered an AT27C256R-70PU-ND > from Digikey for $1.38. This also saved me 2mA. > - Swapped the leaking NiCad for a 4F Supercap, Digikey part 4704PHBK-ND. > - Swapped the original 32.768k crystal for a Digikey part 300-8763-ND, > which is 4PPM part, though I didn't test the original this new part should > help keep better time. > - Followed the 8-Bit Guy's YouTube's guide to "Retro Bright" the yellowed > plastic, which turned out great aside from slightly damaging the Tandy T102 > black plastic emblem by getting it too warm. :crying: Anybody have one of > these laying around? I was utilizing a halogen lamp to warm the solution, > got it too close... > > Though I don't have any specific plans for the T102 (right now it's > calculating prime numbers), I've already acquired a T200, which will > receive similar treatment! > > I'm really glad to see communities like this still active, brings back > such great memories! I might even start a retro Z80/68000/etc or similar > build, fun times ahead. > > Many thanks to all and have a great day. > Andy > > > >
