Don't the caps leak eventually, the same as batteries, and so there is no advantage? I used nimh on all mine.
On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 4:49 PM Andy Lawrence <[email protected]> wrote: > One additional note to my Supercap mod, I the cap I listed above it not > the correct lead spacing and was hacked in, that particular cap I had on > hand from another project, FYI. > > BR, > > > > On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 1:36 PM Andy Lawrence <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Hi Greg, >> >> My wife had some #40 developer, it was the consistency of water, but I >> didn't log the necessary info before trashing the container, my apologies. >> The screen on my T102 isn't in great shape, but I didn't notice any damage >> from the developer, thought maybe I'd replace it with a piece of custom >> glass. However I've not really thought that through yet. >> >> BR, >> Andy >> >> >> On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 1:02 PM Greg Swallow <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> Glad to be of help Andy. >>> >>> May I ask which method of Retro Briting did you use. I jave made my own >>> "cream" >>> compound before, but have gotten the 40 Cream Hair Developer for my next >>> try. A >>> couple of M100 screens got scarred the last time; I used masking tape. >>> This time >>> I've gotten Frog Tape, but am wondering what you, and others, have done >>> to avoid >>> getting the H2 on the clear plastic screen cover. If there is a way to >>> remove the >>> clear part from the case, I have not been able to figure it out. >>> >>> God Bless, >>> >>> GregS <>< >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Andy Lawrence" <[email protected]> >>> To: [email protected] >>> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 9:11:18 AM >>> Subject: [M100] New User - Resurrected T102 >>> >>> Hello All, >>> >>> I was born in 1975, and throughout the 80s I looked forward to the annual >>> Radio Shack catalogs, each year drooling over the T100/2s etc! Well a >>> couple weeks ago I was cruising eBay and ran across a busted T102 and >>> snatched it up cheap. Completed the following to fix it up: >>> >>> - Restored normal functionality by re-soldering the DC jack. >>> - Burned y2k ROM, thanks to GregS for pointing out the file location. I >>> was planning to burn on a stash of old 27c256s, but appears I've used all >>> of those, rather than eBaying surplus I simply ordered an >>> AT27C256R-70PU-ND >>> from Digikey for $1.38. This also saved me 2mA. >>> - Swapped the leaking NiCad for a 4F Supercap, Digikey part 4704PHBK-ND. >>> - Swapped the original 32.768k crystal for a Digikey part 300-8763-ND, >>> which is 4PPM part, though I didn't test the original this new part >>> should >>> help keep better time. >>> - Followed the 8-Bit Guy's YouTube's guide to "Retro Bright" the yellowed >>> plastic, which turned out great aside from slightly damaging the Tandy >>> T102 >>> black plastic emblem by getting it too warm. :crying: Anybody have one >>> of >>> these laying around? I was utilizing a halogen lamp to warm the >>> solution, >>> got it too close... >>> >>> Though I don't have any specific plans for the T102 (right now it's >>> calculating prime numbers), I've already acquired a T200, which will >>> receive similar treatment! >>> >>> I'm really glad to see communities like this still active, brings back >>> such >>> great memories! I might even start a retro Z80/68000/etc or similar >>> build, >>> fun times ahead. >>> >>> Many thanks to all and have a great day. >>> Andy >>> >> >> >> -- >> projecthuh.com >> Never underestimate the carelessness of boredom... >> Most people prefer Windows because most people are idiots... >> >> > > -- > projecthuh.com > Never underestimate the carelessness of boredom... > Most people prefer Windows because most people are idiots... > >
