One additional note to my Supercap mod, I the cap I listed above it not the correct lead spacing and was hacked in, that particular cap I had on hand from another project, FYI.
BR, On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 1:36 PM Andy Lawrence <[email protected]> wrote: > Hi Greg, > > My wife had some #40 developer, it was the consistency of water, but I > didn't log the necessary info before trashing the container, my apologies. > The screen on my T102 isn't in great shape, but I didn't notice any damage > from the developer, thought maybe I'd replace it with a piece of custom > glass. However I've not really thought that through yet. > > BR, > Andy > > > On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 1:02 PM Greg Swallow <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Glad to be of help Andy. >> >> May I ask which method of Retro Briting did you use. I jave made my own >> "cream" >> compound before, but have gotten the 40 Cream Hair Developer for my next >> try. A >> couple of M100 screens got scarred the last time; I used masking tape. >> This time >> I've gotten Frog Tape, but am wondering what you, and others, have done >> to avoid >> getting the H2 on the clear plastic screen cover. If there is a way to >> remove the >> clear part from the case, I have not been able to figure it out. >> >> God Bless, >> >> GregS <>< >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Andy Lawrence" <[email protected]> >> To: [email protected] >> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 9:11:18 AM >> Subject: [M100] New User - Resurrected T102 >> >> Hello All, >> >> I was born in 1975, and throughout the 80s I looked forward to the annual >> Radio Shack catalogs, each year drooling over the T100/2s etc! Well a >> couple weeks ago I was cruising eBay and ran across a busted T102 and >> snatched it up cheap. Completed the following to fix it up: >> >> - Restored normal functionality by re-soldering the DC jack. >> - Burned y2k ROM, thanks to GregS for pointing out the file location. I >> was planning to burn on a stash of old 27c256s, but appears I've used all >> of those, rather than eBaying surplus I simply ordered an >> AT27C256R-70PU-ND >> from Digikey for $1.38. This also saved me 2mA. >> - Swapped the leaking NiCad for a 4F Supercap, Digikey part 4704PHBK-ND. >> - Swapped the original 32.768k crystal for a Digikey part 300-8763-ND, >> which is 4PPM part, though I didn't test the original this new part should >> help keep better time. >> - Followed the 8-Bit Guy's YouTube's guide to "Retro Bright" the yellowed >> plastic, which turned out great aside from slightly damaging the Tandy >> T102 >> black plastic emblem by getting it too warm. :crying: Anybody have one >> of >> these laying around? I was utilizing a halogen lamp to warm the solution, >> got it too close... >> >> Though I don't have any specific plans for the T102 (right now it's >> calculating prime numbers), I've already acquired a T200, which will >> receive similar treatment! >> >> I'm really glad to see communities like this still active, brings back >> such >> great memories! I might even start a retro Z80/68000/etc or similar >> build, >> fun times ahead. >> >> Many thanks to all and have a great day. >> Andy >> > > > -- > projecthuh.com > Never underestimate the carelessness of boredom... > Most people prefer Windows because most people are idiots... > > -- projecthuh.com Never underestimate the carelessness of boredom... Most people prefer Windows because most people are idiots...
