Hi Greg,

My wife had some #40 developer, it was the consistency of water, but I
didn't log the necessary info before trashing the container, my apologies.
The screen on my T102 isn't in great shape, but I didn't notice any damage
from the developer, thought maybe I'd replace it with a piece of custom
glass.  However I've not really thought that through yet.

BR,
Andy


On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 1:02 PM Greg Swallow <[email protected]> wrote:

> Glad to be of help Andy.
>
> May I ask which method of Retro Briting did you use. I jave made my own
> "cream"
> compound before, but have gotten the 40 Cream Hair Developer for my next
> try. A
> couple of M100 screens got scarred the last time; I used masking tape.
> This time
> I've gotten Frog Tape, but am wondering what you, and others, have done to
> avoid
> getting the H2 on the clear plastic screen cover. If there is a way to
> remove the
> clear part from the case, I have not been able to figure it out.
>
> God Bless,
>
> GregS <><
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andy Lawrence" <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 9:11:18 AM
> Subject: [M100] New User - Resurrected T102
>
> Hello All,
>
> I was born in 1975, and throughout the 80s I looked forward to the annual
> Radio Shack catalogs, each year drooling over the T100/2s etc!  Well a
> couple weeks ago I was cruising eBay and ran across a busted T102 and
> snatched it up cheap.  Completed the following to fix it up:
>
> - Restored normal functionality by re-soldering the DC jack.
> - Burned y2k ROM, thanks to GregS for pointing out the file location.  I
> was planning to burn on a stash of old 27c256s, but appears I've used all
> of those, rather than eBaying surplus I simply ordered an AT27C256R-70PU-ND
> from Digikey for $1.38.  This also saved me 2mA.
> - Swapped the leaking NiCad for a 4F Supercap, Digikey part 4704PHBK-ND.
> - Swapped the original 32.768k crystal for a Digikey part 300-8763-ND,
> which is 4PPM part, though I didn't test the original this new part should
> help keep better time.
> - Followed the 8-Bit Guy's YouTube's guide to "Retro Bright" the yellowed
> plastic, which turned out great aside from slightly damaging the Tandy T102
> black plastic emblem by getting it too warm.  :crying:  Anybody have one of
> these laying around?  I was utilizing a halogen lamp to warm the solution,
> got it too close...
>
> Though I don't have any specific plans for the T102 (right now it's
> calculating prime numbers), I've already acquired a T200, which will
> receive similar treatment!
>
> I'm really glad to see communities like this still active, brings back such
> great memories!  I might even start a retro Z80/68000/etc or similar build,
> fun times ahead.
>
> Many thanks to all and have a great day.
> Andy
>


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