well i used him cause he was surposed to be very good (does jag's, bentlys,
rolls for a living) when you say "the sills have to come of" do you mean
every spot welded panel from the factory and if so how much would you
expect to pay some one to do this, cause i have already forked out $4000
for the rust work:-new rear quarters, boot floor, every door corner, most
of the door apatures front passanger floor, bonnet front, front guards rear
shock wall left side,  passanger fire wall, (same place as the fuse box
placement but on the other side) both sides of the strut housing, roof
sections rear seat floor etc etc would you expect him to do this removale
of the seals as well if he were any good?






>Your car has only been half done!.
> "The panel beater seems to be baffelled"What sort of beater did you
>use??
>as a good one or anyboby knows they rust from the inside out more than
>from the outside in,
>When rebuilding a car and your're going this far the sills have to come
>off,as they rust wicked on the inside even more so if the rear of the
>front wheel arch as a rust hole in it.
>Don't worry your not the first to find this sort of thing and you won't
>be the last,thats why I fix everything on my cars apart from short
>block,gearbox and inside the diff.
>Malcolm
>"Carn't do everything"
>Albs wrote:
>>
>> how are you al'going
>> I have recently had my 1600 fully stripped to bare meal rust cut out and
>> treaded and painted but around the seams (engine bay, door surrounds, roof
>> gutters) a brounish  line is appearing, like the rust is coming from under
>> the factory joins. The question is has anyone had this problem before and
>> what's the best way to fix it. ( the car's been etched and sealed) already!
>> The panel beater seems to be baffelled
>> thanks in advance
>>
>



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