Where is this panel beater? Make sure you get a spotters fee! -----Original Message----- From: malcolm cooper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 5:57 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: rust One thing I have said and I'll say again, Sometimes(well most of the time)If the panel shop doesnt want the job they will quote high,and the person thinks they will get a top job .. but probly not.. The only way is to ask if they will do it, not how much to do my car. you have to find a panel shop that will treat your car like one of their own.and for this to happen it has to be the right panel shop. Dave K on this list took his 510 to a panel shop I was working at,because the main panel beater loves datsuns,dave only wanted to spend to tidy it right up,quote was very cheap,but when he picked the car up(won't say how long it took)well the bill was just more than twice quoted, But you had to be their,as every panel was hand sanded right back to steel which was not quoted for but the panel beater didn't like the little spots of rust that was not seen sitting under the factory undercoat. Plus the rear fenders where rolled and flared 25mm,now to see the car if you didn't know about the rear guards you will never notice it,but the bugger can now run two sizes bigger in wheels than me.. it does pay to see what the guys at the panel shop drive.. Malcolm "sorry to bring up you Dave but its a good example" It was done for love of datsuns not just for the money but it's one of the rare top 510's in town now not the old granny it was. Albs wrote: > > well i used him cause he was surposed to be very good (does jag's, bentlys, > rolls for a living) when you say "the sills have to come of" do you mean > every spot welded panel from the factory and if so how much would you > expect to pay some one to do this, cause i have already forked out $4000 > for the rust work:-new rear quarters, boot floor, every door corner, most > of the door apatures front passanger floor, bonnet front, front guards rear > shock wall left side, passanger fire wall, (same place as the fuse box > placement but on the other side) both sides of the strut housing, roof > sections rear seat floor etc etc would you expect him to do this removale > of the seals as well if he were any good? > > >Your car has only been half done!. > > "The panel beater seems to be baffelled"What sort of beater did you > >use?? > >as a good one or anyboby knows they rust from the inside out more than > >from the outside in, > >When rebuilding a car and your're going this far the sills have to come > >off,as they rust wicked on the inside even more so if the rear of the > >front wheel arch as a rust hole in it. > >Don't worry your not the first to find this sort of thing and you won't > >be the last,thats why I fix everything on my cars apart from short > >block,gearbox and inside the diff. > >Malcolm > >"Carn't do everything" > >Albs wrote: > >> > >> how are you al'going > >> I have recently had my 1600 fully stripped to bare meal rust cut out and > >> treaded and painted but around the seams (engine bay, door surrounds, roof > >> gutters) a brounish line is appearing, like the rust is coming from under > >> the factory joins. The question is has anyone had this problem before and > >> what's the best way to fix it. ( the car's been etched and sealed) already! > >> The panel beater seems to be baffelled > >> thanks in advance > >> > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/listindex.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------
