Thanks to the other member of the list for correcting my former post. There was
a fair amount of wrong facts there, sorry.
Tim Piggott wrote:
> hey,
>
> thanks adam for your reply, much needed info. If u don't mind ive got a few
> more questions for u or others.
>
> what is the diff between say a z20 head and a z18 head in terms of
> performance.
Apparenty the Z head was designed for polution reduction rather than better
performance like the CA and FJ and SR motors, remember the Z motors are still 8
valve (2 valves/cylinder). A comparable L series motor will put out more power
than a Z motor in the same configuration, due to the head design. But there are
more EFI and Turbo factory stuff for the Z motor. So it is good swap over the
standard L series. I don't know what the difference is between the Z18 and Z20
heads are, i.e. valve sizes and cams and such. The Z20's we got were mainly in
the urvans so don't expect them to be any better than the Z18 import stuff,
maybe even worse, because of the low down torque required in the commercial
vehicles, i.e. smaller valves and shorter duration cams/lower lift.
>
> is there anywhere in oz that u can acquire the z heads or the z efi
> manifolds or is nz my best bet?
I bought 2 whole motors from NZ that is where I got my setup from. If the Z20
heads are the same configuration, i.e. valves and cam, then I would use Z20
heads. Remeber there may have been difference between Z20 EFI and Z20 carby
heads, but I don't know.
>
>
> Whats the process involved in making the L dizzy fit?
I havn't done that part yet. The plate looks the same for the L and Z, i.e.
remove the dizzy and mount plate (underneath), and add the new dizzy mount and
dizzy. Some one else should be able to help. I would not worry about that part
as you can use the points dizzy and use external ignitors (as the standard
electronic ignition sucks and probably won't work anymore (too old)). The
electronic ignotion on the Z18ET's has a retard system using a knock sensor, but
the ones I have seen don't work anymore, so there is no real benefit in using
the turbo dizzy.
>
>
> As far as i can tell the pistons are standard l20b pistons, so will these
> need to be changed to say forged or will flycuts be necessary?
You only need forget pistons if you are planning more than about 15psi on a
regular basis (150kW+ no intercooler). The standard L20B pistons should be
dished enough to clear the valves, but from my memory my Z18 pistons are dished
too, standard, and still have flycuts in them, so you may need your pistons
flycut.. To get your pistons flycut is not very expensive most
machine/automotive shops can do it.
>
>
> Would u be able to measure those timing cases for me so i can start getting
> the stuff together as this is gonna be a big project so i might get started
> with the smaller things first.
I think someone has said, on this list, a couple of days ago that the L20 and
Z18 are different sizes. So you will need to use a Z20 one with the L20B
motor. I will have to measure when I get home (I am away now).
>
>
> Also what sort of pricing can i expect (if possible could u detail each part
> cost, roughly will do) to pay for the z20 head, the efi manifold, and the
> t3, and any other key parts that u could think of?
L18 Motor
Z18 Timing chain cover: $40-60 (hard to find)*
L20B Motor
Z20 Timing chain cover: $15-40 (from an urvan)
Z18 Head: $80-150 (Overseas or from the classifieds/importers)
Z20 Head: $20-60 (Urvan)
EFI Manifold: $60-120 (Overseas or from the classifieds/importers) Not really
worth that much just hard to find.
Dump Pipe: $60-120 (Custom, factory ones don't clear the steering link, and 3"
mandrel is better)
Turbo: $250-300 (RB20DET ceramic T3 turbo, water cooled, maybe roller bearing)
I know this sounds cheap but I know a guy that sells them for this price.
Low pressure Pump: $30 (bluebird)
High Pressure Pump: $60 (VL)
Surge Tank: $60-80 (Aftermarket)
Aftermarket computer: $850-1300 or
Factory computer + Loom + replacement plugs $150-300 (depending if you can find
it).
Throttlebody: $40-80 (Any will do but it is good to have one with a high idle
switch and an idle position switch. Most nissans have the same bolt pattern,
even VL)
Airflow meter: $30-120 (If you go after market any will do, if you go with a
nissan computer you need to use a compatible airflow meter, i.e. has the same
outputs for the same airflow.)
Other things:
- You will need to grind a small amount from the engine mount on the passenger
side, for turbo clearence.
- You need a radiator that has inlet and outlet on the drivers side. I am just
getting my top tank desoldered and turned around.
- You need to modify the sump to take an oil return line from the turbo.
The totals may sound like alot but when you add a fitting kit to the CA/FJ/SR
you are looking at $3500-6000. Mine has cost less than $1350 and that is a
rebuilt motor with new clutch. I may have forgotten some stuff to put in here,
I'm sure others on the list can add onto this list. If you have anymore
questions I can answer please ask.
* - Note: The water in NZ must be better than where I am from as I have not seen
an ouce of corrosion in any of the imported (from NZ) alloy heads or timing
covers. But when I was looking for a replacement cover from my L20B I had to
look at 6 to get one that wasn't stuffed from crorrosion.
>
>
> Sorry about all the newbie questions it's just that i saw the details of
> this conversion at the ozdat site and ive been keen to find out some info
> ever since.
Some people bag the Z18 conversion (or even the Z18/20 head swap) saying that it
is old and rare and you don't get much more power than a N/A worked L20. But
the Z18 is still the cheapest drop in turbo/efi upgrade for the L series.
Another option you can take is to run the car on LPG only so you get rid of the
computer and put an LPG carby in place of the Aifflow meter, this is much
cheaper in running costs, installation cost, and power levels, i.e. you can run
higher boost without pinging. Scott Janson (on this list) has done this
conversion with a Z24 motor, also others use LPG but I can't remember anyone
else though. I forgot to ask where are you Tim.
>
> Cheers
> TIA
> Tim
--
Adam
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