Peter,
I fitted the seat belts, the carbon canister and removed the spot light assembly tonight.
I will get a new ignition barrel , shroud and lens tomorrow and fit those tomorrow night and try and get down on tuesday or  wednesday night if that's ok with you I think the rego runs out on thursday or friday so I want to try and get it done before then so I don't have to get time of work to get a permit and all the associated stuffing around involved.
Mike
 

Peter Parry wrote:

Terry  I beleive wer' so used to local cast iron crap courtesy of ford & gm we forget that Dattos are a much superior beast built to high standard with modern technology not to a price as our competitors are . I think we can safely assume  that old Arthur was making a quid out of wide eyed youth who wanted the GOOD bits  BTW regarding L20b import blocks fellow lister Mike Harding was down today in his neat Stanza with import block definitive test look under oil pressure switch if its Aus it'll be blank import will have NISSAN JAPAN cat into block in area above starter motor and below o/p switch
Peter

Terry & Heather wrote:

Peter,
I looked it up in my book and you are correct, do'h. I wonder then why the rally heads used to refer to the early L18W SSS cranks as "steel" as if they were something to have, also Arfa Jackson used to write "steel crank" on the spec sheets for some of his master pieces but not all. Do you know if a forged steel crank is the same thing as "steel" maybe it could be?? Interestingly the connecting rods for the L series are also forged steel.

regards
Terry

Peter Parry wrote:

Terry acording to my bible of Dattos ALL L SERIES CRANKSHAFTS ARE
                        FORGED STEEL   and away we go
Peter

Terry & Heather wrote:

Michael,
It's very obvious as most cranks are cast.

Terry

"Foreshew, Michael, HiServ/AU" wrote:

What do you need to look for to determine whether the crank is steel or not?
-----Original Message-----


From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2000 20:58
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: L18W enquiries

Brad,
They go very safely to 3.5" (88.8mm) so you could easily build yourself a copy of the once popular Nismo 1889 cc screamer with a V912/A87 38 mm ports and go have lots a fun. It would be nice also if you got the steel crank, the early HC 9.5:1 SSS W engines had them. The 1889 cc engine has a CR ~10.5:1 with the stock head thickness of 4.25" so you have to fiddle with the cam a bit to keep detonation in check (the 72 degree is good with webers). 

enjoy, 

Terry 

Brad HALLETT wrote: 

Thrillseekers, Due to a bizarre twist of fate, a local auto wrecker has given me a free complete L18W engine from a 610.  I have only seen it at night in the car so I have no idea what head is on it but it is a definite W block. I have never had a W block before, as I have always been content destroying nomal L18's. I therefore need to know what cylinder wall thicknessesI am looking at, i.e. what can I 'safely' bore it to, and what head will probably be on it.  It will be standard as it is on a four door, ll the plates match the stamps, and carb/exhaust are all standard. How hard are the bores?  Do they withstand outrageous stroke:rod ratios?  Is it better to fit an L20crank or just prep the L18 crank and make it rev? I could wait until I pick it up and disassemble it, but where would the fun be in that? ThanksBrad 


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