Terry acording to my bible of Dattos ALL L SERIES CRANKSHAFTS ARE
                        FORGED STEEL   and away we go
Peter

Terry & Heather wrote:

Michael,
It's very obvious as most cranks are cast.

Terry

"Foreshew, Michael, HiServ/AU" wrote:

What do you need to look for to determine whether the crank is steel or not?

-----Original Message-----
From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2000 20:58
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: L18W enquiries

Brad,
They go very safely to 3.5" (88.8mm) so you could easily build yourself a copy of the once popular Nismo 1889 cc screamer with a V912/A87 38 mm ports and go have lots a fun. It would be nice also if you got the steel crank, the early HC 9.5:1 SSS W engines had them. The 1889 cc engine has a CR ~10.5:1 with the stock head thickness of 4.25" so you have to fiddle with the cam a bit to keep detonation in check (the 72 degree is good with webers). 

enjoy, 

Terry 

Brad HALLETT wrote: 

Thrillseekers, Due to a bizarre twist of fate, a local auto wrecker has given me a free complete L18W engine from a 610.  I have only seen it at night in the car so I have no idea what head is on it but it is a definite W block. I have never had a W block before, as I have always been content destroying nomal L18's. I therefore need to know what cylinder wall thicknessesI am looking at, i.e. what can I 'safely' bore it to, and what head will probably be on it.  It will be standard as it is on a four door, ll the plates match the stamps, and carb/exhaust are all standard. How hard are the bores?  Do they withstand outrageous stroke:rod ratios?  Is it better to fit an L20crank or just prep the L18 crank and make it rev? I could wait until I pick it up and disassemble it, but where would the fun be in that? ThanksBrad 


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