Just a quick correction here, in hindsight the hydraulic connector blocks on
a 510 could be brass not copper - sorry for the error.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry &
Heather
Sent: Thursday, 13 July 2000 12:24 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: 4 spot callipers
Rick,
"prop valve" is short for proportioning valve. The pre set variety reduces
the hydraulic line pressure to the rear brakes to a set level eg ~65/35 in
your street driver disc/drum hack. A variable valve will allow you to adjust
this ratio between the front > rear brakes and is mainly found in race cars
but they are also a beautiful thing to have on the street, as locked up rear
brakes is a bad bad thing.
In a 70's Datsun the valve is made out of cast alloy, but normal connector
blocks in a 1600 are made out of copper. To see if you have a valve, follow
the brake lines from the master cylinder and see if they go into a cast
fitting that is about 3" long (usually bolted to the strut tower) that has a
six sided about 19mm (3/4") nut on each the end of it. One of these nuts is
about twice a thick as the other and the thicker one will have a hydraulic
line going into the middle of it. This brake line is for the front brakes
and if you follow it back to the master cylinder it will connect nearest the
firewall. The front brake lines exit the valve at right angles to the line
that goes in though the big nut and then on to each calliper.
The other brake line will go from the front of the master cylinder to the
valve but this line goes in one side of the valve and out the other but the
path through the valve is offset about 3/4" and on most valves there will be
an arrow to indicate the direction of the fluid flow. The rear brake line
will go from the valve to a block on the firewall right behind the rocker
cover and then disappear down the transmission tunnel. This means that a
proportioning valve will have 5 hydraulic lines connected to it.
Hope this makes sense, no one has ever asked this question before.
Bleeders on Nabco & Tokico master cylinders are quite normal and can be
handy if you get an air lock between the front & rear pistons in the
cylinder. If this happens you usually can't get pressure to the rear brakes
when bleeding the slave cylinders but the front will bleed perfectly - it's
a bugger sometimes. For crappo Aussie master cylinders you have to undo the
rear brake line at the cylinder enough to let the air out and then your
pedal pusher gets an adrenalin rush and you get brake fluid everywhere
before the line is tightened up properly.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rick White
Sent: Wednesday, 12 July 2000 11:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: 4 spot callipers
Terry it is a Nabco system you talked about but it doesn't have the
electrical cable joining them together but it seems to have two bleeder
valves(well that is wot they look like.
Please exuse my ignorance but wot is a prop valve??
As I don't know wot I am looking for.
--- "Terry & Heather" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>Hi Rick,
>
>Some 1600's towards the end of the model run usually imported into
Australia
>like the wagon came with a 3/4" dual cylinder complete with a pressure
>differential warning light. The Nabco variety has different reservoirs for
>front and back, the front one (back brakes) is a perfect cylinder and the
>rear res (front brake) in a shorter rounder affair. If it still has the
>original cylinder there will be an electrical connection somewhere between
>both reservoirs, also the original Japanese 510 system doesn't incorporate
a
>prop valve so if it has one it's been fitted ex factory.
>
>The dual cylinder also may have been fitted by an Aussie PO and if this is
>case then it's more than likely a 180B unit.
>
>regards
>
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rick White
>Sent: Wednesday, 12 July 2000 9:51 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: RE: 4 spot callipers
>
>
>Hi there just a quick question.
>In my 1600 WAGON it has two (yes two)reseviors for the master cylinders
>which I can't find any info o about in my workshop manual.(manual is datsun
>510 owners handbook and service manual published bye Floyd Clymer in Los
>Angeles)
>I guess one is for the front and one is for the rear has anyone used this
>system with quod spots and R31 rear disks?
>Are they compatable?
>It is just an idea I have.
>Any info would be good.
>Thanks in advance.
>Rick White.
>
>--- "Cameron Stean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>Hey,
>> if you are going to do just the quad spots on the front you would
>>probably want to try the 7/8 master cylinder, but when you go for the R31
>>rear discs you may have to go up to a 15/16 master cylinder cus you may
>have
>>too much "freeway" in the pedal.... i have found that even the quad spots
>on
>>the front (havent put the rear discs on yet) there is a little bit of
>>"freeway" in the pedal with a 7/8 master... so you really have to try for
>>yourself and see what you feel comfortable with...
>> Cameron
>>
>>
>>>From: "Terry & Heather" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>Subject: RE: 4 spot callipers
>>>Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:51:15 +1000
>>>
>>>"we tend to use the 1 small and 1 large pistons because you don't have to
>>>use a bigger master cylinder"
>>>
>>>
>>>That makes pretty good sense if you are considering going all the way
with
>>>a
>>>R31 rear disc conversion.
>>>
>>>
>>>terry
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cameron Stean
>>>Sent: Tuesday, 11 July 2000 11:36 PM
>>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>Subject: Re: 4 spot calipers
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>there are too types od calipers you can get..........
>>>1- small and large piston
>>>2-two large pistons
>>>we tend to use the the 1 small and 1 large pistons because you dont have
>to
>>>use a bigger master cylinder
>>>we have them for sale for $200 a set and reconditioned $400
>>>if you are interested go to www.workin4u.com/zcarworkshop
>>> cameron stean
>>>
>>>
>>> >From: "Chris Halpin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> >Subject: Re: 4 spot calipers
>>> >Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 22:41:26 EST
>>> >
>>> >all this talk of hilux 4 spots, just wondering what years they are off,
>>>and
>>> >ifthey are expensive to buy from a wrecker or wherever?
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >>From: "Cameron Stean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> >>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> >>Subject: Re: 4 spot calipers
>>> >>Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:15:56 EST
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>yes they do bolt straight up BUT like what i did i had to grind a
>little
>>> >>bit
>>> >>of the head of the bolt down the bottom near the nuckle joint as when
>>>the
>>> >>car is at full lock the nuckle joint and the bolt hit...
>>> >> cameron stean
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>>From: natas katas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> >>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> >>>Subject: 4 spot calipers
>>> >>>Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 11:04:36 -0700 (PDT)
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>Do these 4 spot calipers(Hilux) bolt straight onto the 240k strut!!
>>>Does
>>> >>>anybody know?
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>>---------------------------------
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