Two mins I wish. Last time with an L18 and single 45 and the widely known
fuel problems I managed a 2:24. This time with a L20B twin 45's and a cam.
Who knows. By way of comparison at Sandown with a single 45 and L20B 1:51,
then with the current afore mentioned setup 1:42. So rough calc in head and
with a few more tweeks to the car, crosses fingers with strong resolve and
day dreams, 2:10. Yippy, I will be happy if I can turn dreams to reality! CP
come down and say hello this Sat if your free.
Trev
-----Original Message-----
From: cp [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 17:03
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1600 rear brake cylinders
You should be doing under 2mins...I think.. I've never run there before, but
last time I was down there I spoke to a guy in a sweet little datsun 1200
doing just over 2mins...
Dont think Ill be running down at PI but I definatly come down for a looksie
----- Original Message -----
From: Pooley, Trevor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> Thanks for that info terry. I thought I was on the right track. It is
worth
> a try I think as I have the parts already and I want to optimise the setup
I
> have (I'm budget conscious as always), before saving for a better setup (4
> pots up front). I also have some rear disks with volvo twin spots to try
> down the track. But I think they will need a tilton bias valve ($150 ?
> approx at revolution race gear) to make work effectively. Another thought
is
> that why put on those rear disks if you have to screw the valve for front
> bias so in effect not using much of the potential of the rear disks. With
4
> pots on the front this would be a better situation of course. Then as you
> say a bias bar, valve etc.
>
> I had a good look at the wilwood site that tobias posted on sat. Some good
> tech info there. Probably need to save a bit of $$$ for their gear though.
>
> http://www.wilwood.com/products/calipers/msc/index.html
>
> Hopefully the tweeks I am doing will take a few more seconds off each lap
> and allow me to do 2min 10sec down at Phillip Island on Sat.
>
> Thanks
>
> Trev
>
> P.S. Not looking to outbreak a V8 supercar, Yet!!!!
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 14:25
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
> Trev,
> With the brakes that are in front of your 1600 it is quite likely that you
> are going the correct way. The car that Mick asked about has stock 1600
> disc/drum and the advice for that setup would be very different for yours.
>
> For yours going from your description of brake performance and lock
> characteristics then increasing the rwc by 1/16" seems a reasonable
> modification to me to start with. In saying that for the type of racing
that
> you're doing a fully adjustable bias bar if allowed is the only way you're
> going to get complete balance, otherwise you're swapping things around for
a
> best compromise. The prop valve and rwc size will only give you a good
base
> point as in competition conditions will vary from day to day and track to
> track, little things like fuel load, tyre wear, pad temperature and track
> temperature etc have a major effect on braking performance and a tilton is
> the best way to keep everything under control during a full on go.
>
> regards
>
> terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pooley, Trevor
> Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 11:07 AM
> To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
> I was just about to do this job myself on the 1600 race car. I have a 7/8
> master cylinder with 240K twin spots on the front and std 1600 rears. I
was
> just about to swap the 13/16 rear wheel cylinders for 240K 7/8 wheels
> cylinders. At the moment I have front wheel lockup (metal kings), no rear
> wheel lockup apart from down changes (found this out after flatspotting
the
> front tyres at Sandown a few week back). My idea was to have the same
system
> as the 240K on the lighter 1600.
>
> I am also looking at sticking the 240K rear springs in the 1600. to get
the
> back end lower (cutting if necessary).
>
> Now I'm a little confused. Am I doing the right thing? Any advice wanted.
>
> Trev
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Sunday, 13 August 2000 23:00
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
> Hi Mick,
> Comments under your questions below.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mick Ralph
> Sent: Saturday, 12 August 2000 6:06 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
>
> List (and Terry)
>
> Once again I want to ask a question that has been covered here many times.
> SOB!!
>
> Not for a while though, so you're forgiven (:-
>
> What size rear wheel cylinders should u run for improved braking on the
1600
> rear drums?
> What model do they come from?
>
>
> The preferred rwc for 1600 drums are from the 1200 Coupe 11/16" or
17.46mm,
> make sure they don't sell you 1200 sedan cylinders as these are the same
> size as 1600's. The smaller cylinders may be standard for the late model
> 1200 ute with front discs. These will alter the bias slightly to the front
> and avoid rear lockup with a harder front pad fitted. The standard 1600
rwc
> is 13/16" or 20.64mm.
>
> Do new cylinders come with adjustors? (the old ones are stuffed!!)
>
> No, you will get adjusters from a 180B.
>
>
> regards
>
> Terry
> Thanks in advance
> cheers
> Mick
>
>
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