Yeah Mick
Ray Finch at Ian Boettcher Motors, Ipswich. He is a speedway chassis
engineer and know his toys. That price is AU$ new
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mick Ralph" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> Brad
> Is that in US $$ ??
> Do u know of a Willwood distributor in QLD?? or Aust for that matter??
> cheers
> Mick
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 6:45 PM
> Subject: Re: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
> > Trev
> > Willwood Narrow Dynalites are around $230 a caliper
> >
> > Cheap as chips considering they weigh bugger all
> >
> > Only prob is they have 88.9mm mount centres, so you have to dogbone them
> or
> > offset sleev the hole (please dont file them)
> >
> > regards
> > Brad
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Pooley, Trevor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:02 PM
> > Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> >
> >
> > > Thanks for that info terry. I thought I was on the right track. It is
> > worth
> > > a try I think as I have the parts already and I want to optimise the
> setup
> > I
> > > have (I'm budget conscious as always), before saving for a better
setup
> (4
> > > pots up front). I also have some rear disks with volvo twin spots to
try
> > > down the track. But I think they will need a tilton bias valve ($150 ?
> > > approx at revolution race gear) to make work effectively. Another
> thought
> > is
> > > that why put on those rear disks if you have to screw the valve for
> front
> > > bias so in effect not using much of the potential of the rear disks.
> With
> > 4
> > > pots on the front this would be a better situation of course. Then as
> you
> > > say a bias bar, valve etc.
> > >
> > > I had a good look at the wilwood site that tobias posted on sat. Some
> good
> > > tech info there. Probably need to save a bit of $$$ for their gear
> though.
> > >
> > > http://www.wilwood.com/products/calipers/msc/index.html
> > >
> > > Hopefully the tweeks I am doing will take a few more seconds off each
> lap
> > > and allow me to do 2min 10sec down at Phillip Island on Sat.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Trev
> > >
> > > P.S. Not looking to outbreak a V8 supercar, Yet!!!!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > > Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 14:25
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> > >
> > >
> > > Trev,
> > > With the brakes that are in front of your 1600 it is quite likely that
> you
> > > are going the correct way. The car that Mick asked about has stock
1600
> > > disc/drum and the advice for that setup would be very different for
> yours.
> > >
> > > For yours going from your description of brake performance and lock
> > > characteristics then increasing the rwc by 1/16" seems a reasonable
> > > modification to me to start with. In saying that for the type of
racing
> > that
> > > you're doing a fully adjustable bias bar if allowed is the only way
> you're
> > > going to get complete balance, otherwise you're swapping things around
> for
> > a
> > > best compromise. The prop valve and rwc size will only give you a good
> > base
> > > point as in competition conditions will vary from day to day and track
> to
> > > track, little things like fuel load, tyre wear, pad temperature and
> track
> > > temperature etc have a major effect on braking performance and a
tilton
> is
> > > the best way to keep everything under control during a full on go.
> > >
> > > regards
> > >
> > > terry
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pooley,
Trevor
> > > Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 11:07 AM
> > > To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> > > Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> > >
> > >
> > > I was just about to do this job myself on the 1600 race car. I have a
> 7/8
> > > master cylinder with 240K twin spots on the front and std 1600 rears.
I
> > was
> > > just about to swap the 13/16 rear wheel cylinders for 240K 7/8 wheels
> > > cylinders. At the moment I have front wheel lockup (metal kings), no
> rear
> > > wheel lockup apart from down changes (found this out after
flatspotting
> > the
> > > front tyres at Sandown a few week back). My idea was to have the same
> > system
> > > as the 240K on the lighter 1600.
> > >
> > > I am also looking at sticking the 240K rear springs in the 1600. to
get
> > the
> > > back end lower (cutting if necessary).
> > >
> > > Now I'm a little confused. Am I doing the right thing? Any advice
> wanted.
> > >
> > > Trev
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > > Sent: Sunday, 13 August 2000 23:00
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Mick,
> > > Comments under your questions below.
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mick Ralph
> > > Sent: Saturday, 12 August 2000 6:06 PM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > List (and Terry)
> > >
> > > Once again I want to ask a question that has been covered here many
> times.
> > > SOB!!
> > >
> > > Not for a while though, so you're forgiven (:-
> > >
> > > What size rear wheel cylinders should u run for improved braking on
the
> > 1600
> > > rear drums?
> > > What model do they come from?
> > >
> > >
> > > The preferred rwc for 1600 drums are from the 1200 Coupe 11/16" or
> > 17.46mm,
> > > make sure they don't sell you 1200 sedan cylinders as these are the
same
> > > size as 1600's. The smaller cylinders may be standard for the late
model
> > > 1200 ute with front discs. These will alter the bias slightly to the
> front
> > > and avoid rear lockup with a harder front pad fitted. The standard
1600
> > rwc
> > > is 13/16" or 20.64mm.
> > >
> > > Do new cylinders come with adjustors? (the old ones are stuffed!!)
> > >
> > > No, you will get adjusters from a 180B.
> > >
> > >
> > > regards
> > >
> > > Terry
> > > Thanks in advance
> > > cheers
> > > Mick
> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
>
>
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