Brad
Is that in US $$ ??
Do u know of a Willwood distributor in QLD?? or Aust for that matter??
cheers
Mick
----- Original Message -----
From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> Trev
> Willwood Narrow Dynalites are around $230 a caliper
>
> Cheap as chips considering they weigh bugger all
>
> Only prob is they have 88.9mm mount centres, so you have to dogbone them
or
> offset sleev the hole (please dont file them)
>
> regards
> Brad
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pooley, Trevor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:02 PM
> Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
> > Thanks for that info terry. I thought I was on the right track. It is
> worth
> > a try I think as I have the parts already and I want to optimise the
setup
> I
> > have (I'm budget conscious as always), before saving for a better setup
(4
> > pots up front). I also have some rear disks with volvo twin spots to try
> > down the track. But I think they will need a tilton bias valve ($150 ?
> > approx at revolution race gear) to make work effectively. Another
thought
> is
> > that why put on those rear disks if you have to screw the valve for
front
> > bias so in effect not using much of the potential of the rear disks.
With
> 4
> > pots on the front this would be a better situation of course. Then as
you
> > say a bias bar, valve etc.
> >
> > I had a good look at the wilwood site that tobias posted on sat. Some
good
> > tech info there. Probably need to save a bit of $$$ for their gear
though.
> >
> > http://www.wilwood.com/products/calipers/msc/index.html
> >
> > Hopefully the tweeks I am doing will take a few more seconds off each
lap
> > and allow me to do 2min 10sec down at Phillip Island on Sat.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Trev
> >
> > P.S. Not looking to outbreak a V8 supercar, Yet!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 14:25
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> >
> >
> > Trev,
> > With the brakes that are in front of your 1600 it is quite likely that
you
> > are going the correct way. The car that Mick asked about has stock 1600
> > disc/drum and the advice for that setup would be very different for
yours.
> >
> > For yours going from your description of brake performance and lock
> > characteristics then increasing the rwc by 1/16" seems a reasonable
> > modification to me to start with. In saying that for the type of racing
> that
> > you're doing a fully adjustable bias bar if allowed is the only way
you're
> > going to get complete balance, otherwise you're swapping things around
for
> a
> > best compromise. The prop valve and rwc size will only give you a good
> base
> > point as in competition conditions will vary from day to day and track
to
> > track, little things like fuel load, tyre wear, pad temperature and
track
> > temperature etc have a major effect on braking performance and a tilton
is
> > the best way to keep everything under control during a full on go.
> >
> > regards
> >
> > terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pooley, Trevor
> > Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 11:07 AM
> > To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> > Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> >
> >
> > I was just about to do this job myself on the 1600 race car. I have a
7/8
> > master cylinder with 240K twin spots on the front and std 1600 rears. I
> was
> > just about to swap the 13/16 rear wheel cylinders for 240K 7/8 wheels
> > cylinders. At the moment I have front wheel lockup (metal kings), no
rear
> > wheel lockup apart from down changes (found this out after flatspotting
> the
> > front tyres at Sandown a few week back). My idea was to have the same
> system
> > as the 240K on the lighter 1600.
> >
> > I am also looking at sticking the 240K rear springs in the 1600. to get
> the
> > back end lower (cutting if necessary).
> >
> > Now I'm a little confused. Am I doing the right thing? Any advice
wanted.
> >
> > Trev
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Sunday, 13 August 2000 23:00
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> >
> >
> > Hi Mick,
> > Comments under your questions below.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mick Ralph
> > Sent: Saturday, 12 August 2000 6:06 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> >
> >
> >
> > List (and Terry)
> >
> > Once again I want to ask a question that has been covered here many
times.
> > SOB!!
> >
> > Not for a while though, so you're forgiven (:-
> >
> > What size rear wheel cylinders should u run for improved braking on the
> 1600
> > rear drums?
> > What model do they come from?
> >
> >
> > The preferred rwc for 1600 drums are from the 1200 Coupe 11/16" or
> 17.46mm,
> > make sure they don't sell you 1200 sedan cylinders as these are the same
> > size as 1600's. The smaller cylinders may be standard for the late model
> > 1200 ute with front discs. These will alter the bias slightly to the
front
> > and avoid rear lockup with a harder front pad fitted. The standard 1600
> rwc
> > is 13/16" or 20.64mm.
> >
> > Do new cylinders come with adjustors? (the old ones are stuffed!!)
> >
> > No, you will get adjusters from a 180B.
> >
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Terry
> > Thanks in advance
> > cheers
> > Mick
> >
> >
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