Trev
Willwood Narrow Dynalites are around $230 a caliper
Cheap as chips considering they weigh bugger all
Only prob is they have 88.9mm mount centres, so you have to dogbone them or
offset sleev the hole (please dont file them)
regards
Brad
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pooley, Trevor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
> Thanks for that info terry. I thought I was on the right track. It is
worth
> a try I think as I have the parts already and I want to optimise the setup
I
> have (I'm budget conscious as always), before saving for a better setup (4
> pots up front). I also have some rear disks with volvo twin spots to try
> down the track. But I think they will need a tilton bias valve ($150 ?
> approx at revolution race gear) to make work effectively. Another thought
is
> that why put on those rear disks if you have to screw the valve for front
> bias so in effect not using much of the potential of the rear disks. With
4
> pots on the front this would be a better situation of course. Then as you
> say a bias bar, valve etc.
>
> I had a good look at the wilwood site that tobias posted on sat. Some good
> tech info there. Probably need to save a bit of $$$ for their gear though.
>
> http://www.wilwood.com/products/calipers/msc/index.html
>
> Hopefully the tweeks I am doing will take a few more seconds off each lap
> and allow me to do 2min 10sec down at Phillip Island on Sat.
>
> Thanks
>
> Trev
>
> P.S. Not looking to outbreak a V8 supercar, Yet!!!!
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 14:25
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
> Trev,
> With the brakes that are in front of your 1600 it is quite likely that you
> are going the correct way. The car that Mick asked about has stock 1600
> disc/drum and the advice for that setup would be very different for yours.
>
> For yours going from your description of brake performance and lock
> characteristics then increasing the rwc by 1/16" seems a reasonable
> modification to me to start with. In saying that for the type of racing
that
> you're doing a fully adjustable bias bar if allowed is the only way you're
> going to get complete balance, otherwise you're swapping things around for
a
> best compromise. The prop valve and rwc size will only give you a good
base
> point as in competition conditions will vary from day to day and track to
> track, little things like fuel load, tyre wear, pad temperature and track
> temperature etc have a major effect on braking performance and a tilton is
> the best way to keep everything under control during a full on go.
>
> regards
>
> terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pooley, Trevor
> Sent: Monday, 14 August 2000 11:07 AM
> To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
> I was just about to do this job myself on the 1600 race car. I have a 7/8
> master cylinder with 240K twin spots on the front and std 1600 rears. I
was
> just about to swap the 13/16 rear wheel cylinders for 240K 7/8 wheels
> cylinders. At the moment I have front wheel lockup (metal kings), no rear
> wheel lockup apart from down changes (found this out after flatspotting
the
> front tyres at Sandown a few week back). My idea was to have the same
system
> as the 240K on the lighter 1600.
>
> I am also looking at sticking the 240K rear springs in the 1600. to get
the
> back end lower (cutting if necessary).
>
> Now I'm a little confused. Am I doing the right thing? Any advice wanted.
>
> Trev
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terry & Heather [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Sunday, 13 August 2000 23:00
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
> Hi Mick,
> Comments under your questions below.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mick Ralph
> Sent: Saturday, 12 August 2000 6:06 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: 1600 rear brake cylinders
>
>
>
> List (and Terry)
>
> Once again I want to ask a question that has been covered here many times.
> SOB!!
>
> Not for a while though, so you're forgiven (:-
>
> What size rear wheel cylinders should u run for improved braking on the
1600
> rear drums?
> What model do they come from?
>
>
> The preferred rwc for 1600 drums are from the 1200 Coupe 11/16" or
17.46mm,
> make sure they don't sell you 1200 sedan cylinders as these are the same
> size as 1600's. The smaller cylinders may be standard for the late model
> 1200 ute with front discs. These will alter the bias slightly to the front
> and avoid rear lockup with a harder front pad fitted. The standard 1600
rwc
> is 13/16" or 20.64mm.
>
> Do new cylinders come with adjustors? (the old ones are stuffed!!)
>
> No, you will get adjusters from a 180B.
>
>
> regards
>
> Terry
> Thanks in advance
> cheers
> Mick
>
>
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