Tim and Listers,
The Bluebird S1,S2 rear end is a bolt in swap to a 200b, all manual Blueys
have 3.9:1 final drive ratio.
I think that there is a 200b on the ozdat website with this mod.
I recommend using a TRX setup, it will probably come with urethane bushes,
gas shocks, stiffer springs and anti-roll bar, anti-tramp dampers, as well
as disc brakes.
No modification necessary, the might of Nissan factory engineering working
for you, etc... you have got to be happy.
Change the breather though, have a look on Errol's website at the H190 works
rear end.
The S3 Bluebird rear end is a H190 (heavy-duty) 10-bolt, I am not sure if it
has the same mounts etc - ask Geordie.. but it probably does and would be an
even better swap than the S1 or S2, apparently it is rated at around 400Hp!
Get the wheels, fuel pump, electronic distributor, thermo-fan radiator, and
maybe even engine and 'box from the donor TRX while you are there.
The Gazelle axle won't fit, the top arms are different, and at different
angles.
I am doing a TRX brake conversion onto the Gazelle rear end. The S1/S2 TRX
alloy calliper mounting assembly is very poorly designed. I gave the axles
to my mechanic to press the bearings off...2 weeks ago...He has already
broken one alloy casting and we are still trying to work out a way to get
the inner bearing rings off.
I am very suspicious of the shear-strength of this part.
So no handbrake turns into the gutter - for now.
Regards,
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 7:43 AM
Subject: Re: membersozdat Digest for Fri 13 Oct, 2000
> Terry,
> I agree, the R31's or TRX rears would be the go.
> Cheers
> Feral Errol
>
> ----------
> From: Terry Rudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: membersozdat Digest for Fri 13 Oct, 2000
> Date: Saturday, October 14, 2000 1:33
>
> Tim,
> I'm not up to speed on 200B solid axles but the advice is good from Errol
> and Denzil on the ratios. Most 200B's I've driven seemed to be well
geared,
> the IRS Coupe is 4.111 and that is also pretty good with a 5 speed as the
> coupe is heavier. The Skyline/Pintara solid axle is about as unexciting as
> the 200B, same Borg Warner with it's inherent noise and tapered bearings.
> >From a recent thread on "live axle mods" the 10 bolt diff from the S3
> Bluebird or Gazelle may fit but I'm guessing here.
>
> On the brakes for the solid axle again I don't know what would be best.
The
> R31 would possibly fit with much the same technique as on the IRS, but the
> TRX brakes might be a better choice. Someone on the list must have
upgraded
> a 200B or have seen a good solution.
>
> Regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Errol Smith
> Sent: Friday, 13 October 2000 5:09 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: membersozdat Digest for Fri 13 Oct, 2000
>
> Tim,
> The 3.9 is a good all round ratio still giving reasonable acceleration &
> economy.. For full tilt acceleration as in a race or rally car you would
> use a 4.625 or even a 4.875 ratio diff on 14"rims. I would stick with what
> you have ratio wise. I dont think the R31 diff would be an easy conversion
> but I admit I haven't looked.
> Cheers
> Feral Errol
>
> .
>
> ----------
> From: Tim Piggott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: membersozdat Digest for Fri 13 Oct, 2000
> Date: Saturday, October 14, 2000 12:21
>
> hey,
>
> thanks heaps for the run down on the brake conversion, I really appreciate
> it. I really wanted to keep that IRS in place, now that i know i can im
> stoked.
>
> I actually have 200b just a standard one and the coupe. the standard one
> has
> the live axle and drums, is the conversion exactly the same for that. With
> this one i dont mind at all if i lose the current diff or not.
>
> while im on it what sorta range is 3.89 (thats what i have at the moment
i
>
> think its the borg warner sort)
> it seems to be really mid range.
>
> what would be the best dif to put in for good acceleration but still
> maintain a good top end. (would the diff out of the r31 be a good option)
>
> also if i was to get the diff from the r31 would i be able to put the
whole
>
> rear end straight into the standard 200b or will i be swapping parts from
> the standard to the r31.
>
> Im really sorry about the constant barrage of questions but as u can tell
i
>
> haven't a clue about the rear end. But as u can tell this will soon change
> :)
>
> Cheers
> Thunda
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