I am sure the S3 diff would be a bolt on to a s2 bb, so would also probably
be a bolt-on for a 200b. If your gunna go all out, you may as well and go
for the best and get the s3. Although, the s2 trx diff will take a
thrashing, but my experience with a L20 blowing 2 star cogs at once on a s2
trx diff makes me a little cautious. The 10 bolt s3 would be the way to go
if possible. I have not had a drama with the s2 diff on SR20det so far, but
I don't do burnouts either, so I guess you gotta look at how your gunna
treat it. If I do blow this diff, I have my spare s2 diff and if I blow that
one up I'll go for a s3 diff.
> Tim and Listers,
> The Bluebird S1,S2 rear end is a bolt in swap to a 200b, all manual Blueys
> have 3.9:1 final drive ratio.
> I think that there is a 200b on the ozdat website with this mod.
> I recommend using a TRX setup, it will probably come with urethane bushes,
> gas shocks, stiffer springs and anti-roll bar, anti-tramp dampers, as well
> as disc brakes.
> No modification necessary, the might of Nissan factory engineering working
> for you, etc... you have got to be happy.
> Change the breather though, have a look on Errol's website at the
> H190 works
> rear end.
> The S3 Bluebird rear end is a H190 (heavy-duty) 10-bolt, I am not
> sure if it
> has the same mounts etc - ask Geordie.. but it probably does and
> would be an
> even better swap than the S1 or S2, apparently it is rated at
> around 400Hp!
> Get the wheels, fuel pump, electronic distributor, thermo-fan
> radiator, and
> maybe even engine and 'box from the donor TRX while you are there.
>
> The Gazelle axle won't fit, the top arms are different, and at different
> angles.
>
> I am doing a TRX brake conversion onto the Gazelle rear end. The S1/S2 TRX
> alloy calliper mounting assembly is very poorly designed. I gave the axles
> to my mechanic to press the bearings off...2 weeks ago...He has already
> broken one alloy casting and we are still trying to work out a way to get
> the inner bearing rings off.
> I am very suspicious of the shear-strength of this part.
> So no handbrake turns into the gutter - for now.
> Regards,
> Nick
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 7:43 AM
> Subject: Re: membersozdat Digest for Fri 13 Oct, 2000
>
>
> > Terry,
> > I agree, the R31's or TRX rears would be the go.
> > Cheers
> > Feral Errol
> >
> > ----------
> > From: Terry Rudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: RE: membersozdat Digest for Fri 13 Oct, 2000
> > Date: Saturday, October 14, 2000 1:33
> >
> > Tim,
> > I'm not up to speed on 200B solid axles but the advice is good
> from Errol
> > and Denzil on the ratios. Most 200B's I've driven seemed to be well
> geared,
> > the IRS Coupe is 4.111 and that is also pretty good with a 5
> speed as the
> > coupe is heavier. The Skyline/Pintara solid axle is about as
> unexciting as
> > the 200B, same Borg Warner with it's inherent noise and tapered
> bearings.
> > >From a recent thread on "live axle mods" the 10 bolt diff from the S3
> > Bluebird or Gazelle may fit but I'm guessing here.
> >
> > On the brakes for the solid axle again I don't know what would be best.
> The
> > R31 would possibly fit with much the same technique as on the
> IRS, but the
> > TRX brakes might be a better choice. Someone on the list must have
> upgraded
> > a 200B or have seen a good solution.
> >
> > Regards
> > Terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Errol Smith
> > Sent: Friday, 13 October 2000 5:09 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: membersozdat Digest for Fri 13 Oct, 2000
> >
> > Tim,
> > The 3.9 is a good all round ratio still giving reasonable acceleration &
> > economy.. For full tilt acceleration as in a race or rally car you would
> > use a 4.625 or even a 4.875 ratio diff on 14"rims. I would
> stick with what
> > you have ratio wise. I dont think the R31 diff would be an easy
> conversion
> > but I admit I haven't looked.
> > Cheers
> > Feral Errol
> >
> > .
> >
> > ----------
> > From: Tim Piggott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: membersozdat Digest for Fri 13 Oct, 2000
> > Date: Saturday, October 14, 2000 12:21
> >
> > hey,
> >
> > thanks heaps for the run down on the brake conversion, I really
> appreciate
> > it. I really wanted to keep that IRS in place, now that i know i can im
> > stoked.
> >
> > I actually have 200b just a standard one and the coupe. the standard one
> > has
> > the live axle and drums, is the conversion exactly the same for
> that. With
> > this one i dont mind at all if i lose the current diff or not.
> >
> > while im on it what sorta range is 3.89 (thats what i have at
> the moment
> i
> >
> > think its the borg warner sort)
> > it seems to be really mid range.
> >
> > what would be the best dif to put in for good acceleration but still
> > maintain a good top end. (would the diff out of the r31 be a
> good option)
> >
> > also if i was to get the diff from the r31 would i be able to put the
> whole
> >
> > rear end straight into the standard 200b or will i be swapping
> parts from
> > the standard to the r31.
> >
> > Im really sorry about the constant barrage of questions but as
> u can tell
> i
> >
> > haven't a clue about the rear end. But as u can tell this will
> soon change
> > :)
> >
> > Cheers
> > Thunda
> >
> _________________________________________________________________________
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