woo hoo...
Problem solved. It seems that the headlight switch in the dash had melted
over the years and was not making contact.
I disassembled the switch and sanded all the contacts. As it had operated
for some time in a tarnished condition, the plastic in it had melted around
the springs. I unscrewed the springs, drilled the holes bigger(so that the
spring would sit comfortably in it), stretched the springs a little to put
tension on the contacts and put it back together.
Adding the cowboy factor, i removed the wire that was earthed from the
chassi to the headlight relay (RB i think) which was the hi/low dimmer
switch.(causing it to be constant high beam when the headlights were on).
Finally, the left hand driving light (inner hibeam) had at some stage been
changed to a H3. Funilly enough, the back of the lamp has a metallic coating
which the globe earths to and again causes constant high beam.
As far as right hand indicators go, my theory is that they will workwhen i
plug the globes in on that side... Then they can earth out...... Guess that
makes me the cowboy..... Yea haw...
Thanks to all who replied... It got me thinking....
-Cheers Wayne..
Subject: Re: Headlight woes
> The 1600 wiring for lights and other high current circuits are quite
> complex to avoid using relays and more wires. Be careful when checking
out
> your wiring as some are always live and can carry high current, ie
shorting
> to earth. I didn't like the way my lights were wired so I got an
> aftermarket 2x30A (fused) relay box for $20 to run high beam and low
> beam. Works a treat and the power wires don't run into the dash for it,
> straight from the battery to the relay to the lights (<1Metre).
>
> At 11:19 AM 24/11/2000 +1100, you wrote:
> >
> >>Thanks Terry, Nothing changes when i disconnect the combination switch
> >>totally. I have inspected and cleaned the electrical contacts of the
> >>combination switch and it appears to be fine. I'll follow the wiring
> >>through and see what I can find.
> >> -wayne
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>> >>
> >>Wayne,
> >>This type of fault in the high beam circuit on a 510 is usually in the
> >>combination dipswitch, horn & indicator switch. Does the horn work as I
> >>note that one of the blinker circuits is crook too. Check that all
> >>(including the side markers) of the bulbs are working and the correct
> >>voltage. The stock 510 blinker can is not what you'd call the best in
the
> >>business, use a replacement that load senses. Nippondenso units out of a
> >>Toy or Mazda are the best in the business and cost $5 at the wreckers.
> >>
> >>regards
> >>Terry
>
>
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
No unauthorised redistribution of this email
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
