Tom,
The advise that I give to the list on brake modification matters is always
based on personal experience and I have never used 200B booster and/or
master cylinder on a 1600 simply because there are much better low cost
alternatives that work very well and don't require panel beating to fit.
Having said that, I can't see any reason why a 200B master cylinder either
boosted or unboosted won't work with your brake setup as it's very close to
what comes stock in an imported 200B GX wagon.
In response to your second para IMHO it's a myth that a bigger master
cylinder or even the addition of a booster will improve braking performance,
in fact it actually can decrease performance if it's not a good match for
the rest of the system. A combination of a 240K/Skyline 7/8" cylinder with a
180B booster with single piston front callipers and rear drums just doesn't
work as time and again I've seen this combination used with poor results. A
couple of ppl on this list with similar brakes have recently changed from a
7/8" cylinder to a 3/4" cylinder and have been amazed at the difference and
I've changed from a 3/4" to a 13/16" and it didn't do much to improve my
brakes although it's acceptable. In determining which cylinder is the best
to use you have to look at a number of factors - I usually start with what
Nissan did in the first place as they spend big dollars doing the research
into satisfying design laws and then you have the resources on our list from
all types of applications (street, track etc) and go from there.
In response to your third para I'd say give the 200B cylinder a go, the
addition of split front/rear circuits is a highly recommended upgrade for
safety reasons so if you don't like the 200B cylinder it's easy to go to
something more suitable if that's how it turns out on your 1600. I can't
compare the 13/16" Sunny cylinder unboosted to anything as I've never used
one that way. I prefer boosted for street and unboosted for track and the
last pure track car that I owned had a 240K 7/8" unboosted cylinder with 4
discs, Holden HQ front/Volvo 164 rear as it was built that way (not by me)
in the early 80's and it's hardly a combination that you can use for any
comparisons with the components that we use these days.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Richardson
Sent: Tuesday, 9 January 2001 4:53
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Brake booster
Hi Terry,
The setup I have at the moment is:
240k struts with 253mm solid discs and Sumitomo twin-spot calipers
260z rear drums (they are the same size as stock 1600 drums but they are
vented & alloy, I believe... a legacy of the previous owner!)
Standard master cylinder (no booster)
I know the booster is there to improve pedal feel and perhaps safety but I'm
not fussed too much about it. I just wanted a bigger master cylinder to try
and get it to pull up a bit quicker perhaps, and definately one with two
resovoirs so if something in the front or rear lines fails I still have
*some* brakes. It's a pure street car, daily driven.
I got a 200b booster & m/c (in pretty good nick) from zac but the booster's
not going to clear the guard, was just wondering if it's easy/possible to
fit the m/c only. How does this compare to the non-boosted Sunny m/c you
recommended? Since I have this m/c and it's in good cond, I'd like to use
it, but if a 200b (m/c only) isn't going to suit my setup I'm happy to hunt
around for something better.
Thanks again!
- Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
Sent: Tuesday, 9 January 2001 12:23 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Brake booster
Tom,
If you already have a dual cylinder setup then you can easily fit a larger
master cylinder from the same family (i.e. Aussie or Japanese) to a 1600,
most Nissan L cylinders are a straight bolt up and you don't need a booster.
A booster is merely a device to give you effective braking with reduced
effort, some say they are a luxury item and some folks like em, some don't.
To fit a booster to a 1600 without cosmetic surgery to the strut tower with
a Mexican screw driver limits you to the small bore Bendix type fitted to
the early 240K (C110), any 180B (610) and some Sunny (A12/A14). These are
good boosters and I would think they are still the most popular in the 1600.
If you use a 180B Japanese (Aussie cylinders are crap IMHO) dual Nabco,
Tokico or Sankyo system with anything from a standard 1600 brake setup to
200B/240K front and R31 rear then you would be advised to use the standard
3/4" or if you really want a very firm peddle then the Sunny 13/16" will
suite. The 13/16" cylinder will also accommodate most dual spot front
callipers fairly well and I'd recommend this cylinder if you choose to go
without a booster.
If you want any more specific info then please let me know what you are
running at the moment, what you do with your Datto (i.e. street, track, dirt
etc) and what you don't like about it as you can appreciate from the brake
discussions in another thread there isn't a quickie single solution to the
perfect Frankenstein brake setup on a 1600 or (any other car for that
matter).
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Richardson
Sent: Monday, 8 January 2001 8:19
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Brake booster
Listers,
Just a quickie, I want to fit a bigger master cylinder to my 1600. I have a
200b m/c and booster, but was wondering if I can use the m/c alone as I dont
really care about the booster that much. If I have to fit one, is there
something which doesnt need rubber mallet surgery to clear the guard?
Thanks!
- Tom
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