I agree with Terry as I currently use the dreaded 7/8" cylinder with 180B
booster with 200B fronts and it just doesn't work. Although I've used this combo
with Volvo 4 spots and vented rotors and it was great.
Andrew Smith
Terry Rudd wrote:
> Tom,
> The advise that I give to the list on brake modification matters is always
> based on personal experience and I have never used 200B booster and/or
> master cylinder on a 1600 simply because there are much better low cost
> alternatives that work very well and don't require panel beating to fit.
> Having said that, I can't see any reason why a 200B master cylinder either
> boosted or unboosted won't work with your brake setup as it's very close to
> what comes stock in an imported 200B GX wagon.
>
> In response to your second para IMHO it's a myth that a bigger master
> cylinder or even the addition of a booster will improve braking performance,
> in fact it actually can decrease performance if it's not a good match for
> the rest of the system. A combination of a 240K/Skyline 7/8" cylinder with a
> 180B booster with single piston front callipers and rear drums just doesn't
> work as time and again I've seen this combination used with poor results. A
> couple of ppl on this list with similar brakes have recently changed from a
> 7/8" cylinder to a 3/4" cylinder and have been amazed at the difference and
> I've changed from a 3/4" to a 13/16" and it didn't do much to improve my
> brakes although it's acceptable. In determining which cylinder is the best
> to use you have to look at a number of factors - I usually start with what
> Nissan did in the first place as they spend big dollars doing the research
> into satisfying design laws and then you have the resources on our list from
> all types of applications (street, track etc) and go from there.
>
> In response to your third para I'd say give the 200B cylinder a go, the
> addition of split front/rear circuits is a highly recommended upgrade for
> safety reasons so if you don't like the 200B cylinder it's easy to go to
> something more suitable if that's how it turns out on your 1600. I can't
> compare the 13/16" Sunny cylinder unboosted to anything as I've never used
> one that way. I prefer boosted for street and unboosted for track and the
> last pure track car that I owned had a 240K 7/8" unboosted cylinder with 4
> discs, Holden HQ front/Volvo 164 rear as it was built that way (not by me)
> in the early 80's and it's hardly a combination that you can use for any
> comparisons with the components that we use these days.
>
> regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Richardson
> Sent: Tuesday, 9 January 2001 4:53
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Brake booster
>
> Hi Terry,
>
> The setup I have at the moment is:
> 240k struts with 253mm solid discs and Sumitomo twin-spot calipers
> 260z rear drums (they are the same size as stock 1600 drums but they are
> vented & alloy, I believe... a legacy of the previous owner!)
> Standard master cylinder (no booster)
>
> I know the booster is there to improve pedal feel and perhaps safety but I'm
> not fussed too much about it. I just wanted a bigger master cylinder to try
> and get it to pull up a bit quicker perhaps, and definately one with two
> resovoirs so if something in the front or rear lines fails I still have
> *some* brakes. It's a pure street car, daily driven.
>
> I got a 200b booster & m/c (in pretty good nick) from zac but the booster's
> not going to clear the guard, was just wondering if it's easy/possible to
> fit the m/c only. How does this compare to the non-boosted Sunny m/c you
> recommended? Since I have this m/c and it's in good cond, I'd like to use
> it, but if a 200b (m/c only) isn't going to suit my setup I'm happy to hunt
> around for something better.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> - Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
> Sent: Tuesday, 9 January 2001 12:23 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Brake booster
>
> Tom,
> If you already have a dual cylinder setup then you can easily fit a larger
> master cylinder from the same family (i.e. Aussie or Japanese) to a 1600,
> most Nissan L cylinders are a straight bolt up and you don't need a booster.
> A booster is merely a device to give you effective braking with reduced
> effort, some say they are a luxury item and some folks like em, some don't.
> To fit a booster to a 1600 without cosmetic surgery to the strut tower with
> a Mexican screw driver limits you to the small bore Bendix type fitted to
> the early 240K (C110), any 180B (610) and some Sunny (A12/A14). These are
> good boosters and I would think they are still the most popular in the 1600.
>
> If you use a 180B Japanese (Aussie cylinders are crap IMHO) dual Nabco,
> Tokico or Sankyo system with anything from a standard 1600 brake setup to
> 200B/240K front and R31 rear then you would be advised to use the standard
> 3/4" or if you really want a very firm peddle then the Sunny 13/16" will
> suite. The 13/16" cylinder will also accommodate most dual spot front
> callipers fairly well and I'd recommend this cylinder if you choose to go
> without a booster.
>
> If you want any more specific info then please let me know what you are
> running at the moment, what you do with your Datto (i.e. street, track, dirt
> etc) and what you don't like about it as you can appreciate from the brake
> discussions in another thread there isn't a quickie single solution to the
> perfect Frankenstein brake setup on a 1600 or (any other car for that
> matter).
>
> regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Richardson
> Sent: Monday, 8 January 2001 8:19
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Brake booster
>
> Listers,
>
> Just a quickie, I want to fit a bigger master cylinder to my 1600. I have a
> 200b m/c and booster, but was wondering if I can use the m/c alone as I dont
> really care about the booster that much. If I have to fit one, is there
> something which doesnt need rubber mallet surgery to clear the guard?
>
> Thanks!
>
> - Tom
>
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