Adam,
Funny you say that, like i said i did mine quickly and cheaply. I bought the
paint off a mate and i still dont know exactly what colour it is, it just looked
alright in the tin :) With Andrews though he picked out the colour (fiat verde
green i think?). Good idea is to get sample tins of the colours you think might
be the right ones and apply them to an old panel or something and see how they
look off the gun - may not always be the same as they looked on paper!!
Good luck!
Steve.
Adam Jackson wrote:
> Steve,
>
> That's what i am having the most problems with, choosing the color. I was
> thining of a green color similar to dat-14u but a little darker
>
> how did you come to find the right color?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "steve taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 6:39 AM
> Subject: Re: paint question
>
> >
> > Well youve got nothing to worry about then!! Take as long as it takes
> until its
> > all perfect - and make sure you choose a colour that your 100% sure about!
> > Good luck
> > Steve.
> >
> > Adam Jackson wrote:
> >
> > > Steve,
> > >
> > > thanks, i have seen your car before, looks to be pretty neat with the
> new
> > > paint
> > >
> > > time isn't really a factor wiht my paint, as i really have all the time
> in
> > > the world, whihc is good and bad really
> > >
> > > thanx again
> > >
> > > Adam
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Steve Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 11:05 PM
> > > Subject: Re: paint question
> > >
> > > > Adam,
> > > > These guys have given great advice but going to such great lengths may
> not
> > > be
> > > > neccassary depending on how good you want the job to turn out.........
> > > When i
> > > > painted mine i was working on a budget ($500), and a need for it to be
> > > painted
> > > > before the summernat's - we painted the whole lot in 3 days!! Check it
> out
> > > here,
> > > > http://members.xoom.com/dat14u/steve.htm. Like i said its no where
> near
> > > perfect
> > > > but certainly looks alot more respectable than it did b4 + the car
> wasnt
> > > off the
> > > > road for very long!?!?!!?
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Steve.
> > > >
> > > > Adam Jackson wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Richard,
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for the tips.
> > > > >
> > > > > I think this paint is going to take alot longer than expected adn
> cost
> > > more
> > > > > too.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks again guys, this mailing list is a fantastic group of
> > > knowledgeable
> > > > > people.
> > > > > Cheers,
> > > > > Adam
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 11:01 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: paint question
> > > > >
> > > > > > Adam,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bruce's advice is spot on, but here are some more tips.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > To fill paint chips and scratches after undercoating, use a tube
> of
> > > the
> > > > > > right type of spot putty and apply the putty with a putty knife.
> Let
> > > it
> > > > > dry
> > > > > > (i.e. shrink), then rub it back with wet 320 using a sanding
> block,
> > > until
> > > > > > you are back to the original paint around the chip and the putty
> > > > > completely
> > > > > > fills the scratch/chip, Reputty with thin layers a number of times
> to
> > > > > build
> > > > > > it up if necessary, allowing drying between layers. Spray over
> with
> > > > > > undercoat and rub this back using 600 wet. Don't be surprised to
> have
> > > to
> > > > > put
> > > > > > 50 or 100 spots of putty on a panel to fill all the stone chips
> and
> > > paint
> > > > > > scratches. If your eyes are as bad as mine you will have your
> third
> > > > > > undercoat sprayed on and you will still see another chip you
> missed!.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > As Bruce says, you will see every blemish with topcoat as it will
> > > follow
> > > > > > every contour. A bit more time on preparation to get the body
> skin
> > > > > perfect
> > > > > > before top coating will convert the job from amateur looking to
> > > > > > professional.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > For small dints, try pushing the panel gently back from the
> underside
> > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > broad curved dolly (a block of shaped soft wood is OK) and tapping
> to
> > > near
> > > > > > its original position before using bog. Some thin bogging will
> > > probably
> > > > > be
> > > > > > inevitable for a good looking job on a dinted panel, its rare to
> be
> > > able
> > > > > to
> > > > > > hammer or press it back to its original shape . Take the whole of
> the
> > > > > > dinted area back to bare metal (I use a rotary paint stripping
> tool in
> > > my
> > > > > > electric drill - it will also remove any light rust) and use a
> quality
> > > bog
> > > > > > from the auto painters supplier, these are finer and rub back
> > > smoother.
> > > > > If
> > > > > > its an "outward" dint from objects in the boot hitting the panel,
> tap
> > > it
> > > > > > back very gently using an almost flat panel hammer and a dolly
> behind
> > > it,
> > > > > > dont hit hard as you will thin the metal and stretch it. Even if
> you
> > > > > leave
> > > > > > it lower and fill back with bog this will be better than a
> painting
> > > over a
> > > > > > raised dint. If you leave raised dints you would buff off the
> paint
> > > when
> > > > > > you polish the top coat.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I use an orbital sander to rip off the excess bog and get it down
> to
> > > the
> > > > > > approximate hight. But you should use a long bog file (looks like
> an
> > > old
> > > > > > fashioned woodworkers hand plane that uses long strips of sand
> paper)
> > > to
> > > > > > finally smooth the bog back and feather its edges so you dont have
> any
> > > > > > ripples or obvious bog patches. Then its undercoat, putty,
> undercoat,
> > > rub
> > > > > > back, feel for surface ripples and fix any by repeating above,
> finally
> > > > > > topcoat.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You might hate doing it, but a good bog job looks ten times better
> > > than
> > > > > > lousy paint preparation. Even top panel beaters use some bog or
> lead
> > > > > > filler. After a while you get to like bog for the small problems
> it
> > > fixes.
> > > > > I
> > > > > > have done bog jobs on rally cars that have lasted more than ten
> years
> > > > > > without showing any sign of the repair.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There are more sophisticated techniques for shrinking metal to
> bring
> > > it
> > > > > back
> > > > > > to original shape but I am not experienced on these skills.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Bruce Ferguson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > > Sent: Monday, 5 February 2001 16:38 PM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: paint question
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Adam,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The final coat will make them stand out more !!!!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Rub it back again, 320 sounds fine, and if they are
> > > > > > > only minor, spray putty would be the go, but make sure
> > > > > > > you let it cure for a couple of weeks, as it tends to
> > > > > > > shink a little.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Rub the putty back until smooth and then undercaot
> > > > > > > once more before rubbing it back again. Check it and
> > > > > > > if OK then shoot the final coat.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hope this helps.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Bruce
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > __________________________________________________
> > > > > > > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> > > > > > > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
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