Steve,
thanks, i have seen your car before, looks to be pretty neat with the new
paint
time isn't really a factor wiht my paint, as i really have all the time in
the world, whihc is good and bad really
thanx again
Adam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: paint question
> Adam,
> These guys have given great advice but going to such great lengths may not
be
> neccassary depending on how good you want the job to turn out.........
When i
> painted mine i was working on a budget ($500), and a need for it to be
painted
> before the summernat's - we painted the whole lot in 3 days!! Check it out
here,
> http://members.xoom.com/dat14u/steve.htm. Like i said its no where near
perfect
> but certainly looks alot more respectable than it did b4 + the car wasnt
off the
> road for very long!?!?!!?
> Cheers
> Steve.
>
> Adam Jackson wrote:
>
> > Richard,
> >
> > Thanks for the tips.
> >
> > I think this paint is going to take alot longer than expected adn cost
more
> > too.
> >
> > Thanks again guys, this mailing list is a fantastic group of
knowledgeable
> > people.
> > Cheers,
> > Adam
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 11:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: paint question
> >
> > > Adam,
> > >
> > > Bruce's advice is spot on, but here are some more tips.
> > >
> > > To fill paint chips and scratches after undercoating, use a tube of
the
> > > right type of spot putty and apply the putty with a putty knife. Let
it
> > dry
> > > (i.e. shrink), then rub it back with wet 320 using a sanding block,
until
> > > you are back to the original paint around the chip and the putty
> > completely
> > > fills the scratch/chip, Reputty with thin layers a number of times to
> > build
> > > it up if necessary, allowing drying between layers. Spray over with
> > > undercoat and rub this back using 600 wet. Don't be surprised to have
to
> > put
> > > 50 or 100 spots of putty on a panel to fill all the stone chips and
paint
> > > scratches. If your eyes are as bad as mine you will have your third
> > > undercoat sprayed on and you will still see another chip you missed!.
> > >
> > > As Bruce says, you will see every blemish with topcoat as it will
follow
> > > every contour. A bit more time on preparation to get the body skin
> > perfect
> > > before top coating will convert the job from amateur looking to
> > > professional.
> > >
> > > For small dints, try pushing the panel gently back from the underside
with
> > a
> > > broad curved dolly (a block of shaped soft wood is OK) and tapping to
near
> > > its original position before using bog. Some thin bogging will
probably
> > be
> > > inevitable for a good looking job on a dinted panel, its rare to be
able
> > to
> > > hammer or press it back to its original shape . Take the whole of the
> > > dinted area back to bare metal (I use a rotary paint stripping tool in
my
> > > electric drill - it will also remove any light rust) and use a quality
bog
> > > from the auto painters supplier, these are finer and rub back
smoother.
> > If
> > > its an "outward" dint from objects in the boot hitting the panel, tap
it
> > > back very gently using an almost flat panel hammer and a dolly behind
it,
> > > dont hit hard as you will thin the metal and stretch it. Even if you
> > leave
> > > it lower and fill back with bog this will be better than a painting
over a
> > > raised dint. If you leave raised dints you would buff off the paint
when
> > > you polish the top coat.
> > >
> > > I use an orbital sander to rip off the excess bog and get it down to
the
> > > approximate hight. But you should use a long bog file (looks like an
old
> > > fashioned woodworkers hand plane that uses long strips of sand paper)
to
> > > finally smooth the bog back and feather its edges so you dont have any
> > > ripples or obvious bog patches. Then its undercoat, putty, undercoat,
rub
> > > back, feel for surface ripples and fix any by repeating above, finally
> > > topcoat.
> > >
> > > You might hate doing it, but a good bog job looks ten times better
than
> > > lousy paint preparation. Even top panel beaters use some bog or lead
> > > filler. After a while you get to like bog for the small problems it
fixes.
> > I
> > > have done bog jobs on rally cars that have lasted more than ten years
> > > without showing any sign of the repair.
> > >
> > > There are more sophisticated techniques for shrinking metal to bring
it
> > back
> > > to original shape but I am not experienced on these skills.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Bruce Ferguson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Monday, 5 February 2001 16:38 PM
> > > Subject: Re: paint question
> > >
> > >
> > > > Adam,
> > > >
> > > > The final coat will make them stand out more !!!!
> > > >
> > > > Rub it back again, 320 sounds fine, and if they are
> > > > only minor, spray putty would be the go, but make sure
> > > > you let it cure for a couple of weeks, as it tends to
> > > > shink a little.
> > > >
> > > > Rub the putty back until smooth and then undercaot
> > > > once more before rubbing it back again. Check it and
> > > > if OK then shoot the final coat.
> > > >
> > > > Hope this helps.
> > > >
> > > > Bruce
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > __________________________________________________
> > > > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> > > > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
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