Adam,
These guys have given great advice but going to such great lengths may not be
neccassary depending on how good you want the job to turn out......... When i
painted mine i was working on a budget ($500), and a need for it to be painted
before the summernat's - we painted the whole lot in 3 days!! Check it out here,
http://members.xoom.com/dat14u/steve.htm. Like i said its no where near perfect
but certainly looks alot more respectable than it did b4 + the car wasnt off the
road for very long!?!?!!?
Cheers
Steve.
Adam Jackson wrote:
> Richard,
>
> Thanks for the tips.
>
> I think this paint is going to take alot longer than expected adn cost more
> too.
>
> Thanks again guys, this mailing list is a fantastic group of knowledgeable
> people.
> Cheers,
> Adam
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 11:01 PM
> Subject: Re: paint question
>
> > Adam,
> >
> > Bruce's advice is spot on, but here are some more tips.
> >
> > To fill paint chips and scratches after undercoating, use a tube of the
> > right type of spot putty and apply the putty with a putty knife. Let it
> dry
> > (i.e. shrink), then rub it back with wet 320 using a sanding block, until
> > you are back to the original paint around the chip and the putty
> completely
> > fills the scratch/chip, Reputty with thin layers a number of times to
> build
> > it up if necessary, allowing drying between layers. Spray over with
> > undercoat and rub this back using 600 wet. Don't be surprised to have to
> put
> > 50 or 100 spots of putty on a panel to fill all the stone chips and paint
> > scratches. If your eyes are as bad as mine you will have your third
> > undercoat sprayed on and you will still see another chip you missed!.
> >
> > As Bruce says, you will see every blemish with topcoat as it will follow
> > every contour. A bit more time on preparation to get the body skin
> perfect
> > before top coating will convert the job from amateur looking to
> > professional.
> >
> > For small dints, try pushing the panel gently back from the underside with
> a
> > broad curved dolly (a block of shaped soft wood is OK) and tapping to near
> > its original position before using bog. Some thin bogging will probably
> be
> > inevitable for a good looking job on a dinted panel, its rare to be able
> to
> > hammer or press it back to its original shape . Take the whole of the
> > dinted area back to bare metal (I use a rotary paint stripping tool in my
> > electric drill - it will also remove any light rust) and use a quality bog
> > from the auto painters supplier, these are finer and rub back smoother.
> If
> > its an "outward" dint from objects in the boot hitting the panel, tap it
> > back very gently using an almost flat panel hammer and a dolly behind it,
> > dont hit hard as you will thin the metal and stretch it. Even if you
> leave
> > it lower and fill back with bog this will be better than a painting over a
> > raised dint. If you leave raised dints you would buff off the paint when
> > you polish the top coat.
> >
> > I use an orbital sander to rip off the excess bog and get it down to the
> > approximate hight. But you should use a long bog file (looks like an old
> > fashioned woodworkers hand plane that uses long strips of sand paper) to
> > finally smooth the bog back and feather its edges so you dont have any
> > ripples or obvious bog patches. Then its undercoat, putty, undercoat, rub
> > back, feel for surface ripples and fix any by repeating above, finally
> > topcoat.
> >
> > You might hate doing it, but a good bog job looks ten times better than
> > lousy paint preparation. Even top panel beaters use some bog or lead
> > filler. After a while you get to like bog for the small problems it fixes.
> I
> > have done bog jobs on rally cars that have lasted more than ten years
> > without showing any sign of the repair.
> >
> > There are more sophisticated techniques for shrinking metal to bring it
> back
> > to original shape but I am not experienced on these skills.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bruce Ferguson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, 5 February 2001 16:38 PM
> > Subject: Re: paint question
> >
> >
> > > Adam,
> > >
> > > The final coat will make them stand out more !!!!
> > >
> > > Rub it back again, 320 sounds fine, and if they are
> > > only minor, spray putty would be the go, but make sure
> > > you let it cure for a couple of weeks, as it tends to
> > > shink a little.
> > >
> > > Rub the putty back until smooth and then undercaot
> > > once more before rubbing it back again. Check it and
> > > if OK then shoot the final coat.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps.
> > >
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
> > > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> > >
> >
> >
>
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