Ah twin SU's. Then forget most of the advice you have got.
First check the fuel level in the float bowls at the correct hight. Use a
SU tuning guide to do this, its easy.
Next unscrew the big nut on top of each bell and pull out the damper
pistons. Check for oil in the dampers. I dont think you will find any,
this is why your engine will cut out when you blip the throttle. Put some
engine oil in the tubes so the damper can do its stuff.
Next slacken off all linkages between the carbs and set both butterflies
individually to a low idle speed. You can check both butterflies are set the
same by using a piece of hose as a "stethoscope". Put one end in you ear
and the other end down each carb with the engine idling. They should both
make the same sucking sound, if they dont, turn the idle adjustment on each
carb until they sound identical at a low idle speed.
Tighten all linkages, making sure that both butterflies are being opened at
exactly the same time.
Your engine should pull smoothly and hard from now on.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, 25 February 2001 1:44 AM
Subject: Re: EFI L series engines and other fuel problems
> Gday
>
> My name is not barbara, thats my mums name as the internet is payed for
> by her and thats the email address we got given. Thansk. Anyway my
> engine has 2 SU's 1 1/4
> inch i think. Yeah and also the car doesnt idle, you have to keep your
> feet on the accelerator, braker and clutch whilst the car is stopped at
> tthe lights.
>
> Pele.
>
> Rick White wrote:
>
> > Babara your problem if your L series engine still has the standard carby
on it with my guess would be the accellerator pump that is built in the
carby is stuffed.
> > I had the same problem a while ago.
> > The accelerator pump is a little leather diapram thing that gives the
carby just enough fuel to get going on lower idle.
> > I got the carby specialist to fit mine as I didn't have a clue about it.
> > But I sat and watched and it was dead easy to fit so next time I will do
it myself.
> > it only cost me about $25.00 to get it sorted.
> > I hope you sort it out anyways.
> > till next time.
> > Rick White.
> > --- [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Gday
> > ><p>I think my 1600 has the same problem. In the last months i have been
> > >working on the other side of the city through stop start traffic, when
> > >i pull up at the lights for any wear between 1 and 15 minutes then i
get
> > >the green i accelertae and the car coughs like cristopher skase with an
> > >extradition warrant on his head. It backfires and really pisses me off
> > >and i dont no why it does this. But when i cruise with no stops the
1600
> > >will go all day, just the stop start which frigs it up. Is all i need a
> > >$4 fuel regulator.? Also when i drive and nail the accelerater the car
> > >lags quite alot before actaully doing what my right foot tells it to
do.
> > >Even slow acceration has a bit of lag. My car is a L series not a
turbo.
> > >The colder the weather the worse this problem is, any one got5 a
possible
> > >solution to my woe?
> > ><p>Pele.
> > ><p>Richard Clough wrote:
> > ><blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Luke
> > >Clough has been have little joy in his 1600 since installing a VL
> > >Commodore fuel pump to his EFI L series engine last week. His
idea
> > >was to overcome fuel starvation being experienced on very hot days
after
> > >sitting at the lights, by pumping more fuel to cool the
rail.</font></font>
> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Problem became even more pronounced
this
> > >week leading to embarrassments like pushing the car after it dies at
the
> > >lights!</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I travelled to
Melbourne
> > >today tandem trailer in tow and I was under instruction by my financial
> > >advisor (wife, Lynn) to hand over her Commodore to Luke, so he had
reliable
> > >transport for work until he, or I, had his fuel problem sorted
out.</font></font>
> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I have been nagging him to replace the
> > >original fuel pressure regulator ever since he fitted the engine, as
its
> > >adjustment thread was worn out. Obviously motivated by the threat
> > >of driving the Commodore, Luke finally did it today. The
replacement
> > >regulator cost $4</font></font> (off <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>a
> > >6 cyl EFI Skyline). So far, his engine is purring and pulling
strongly
> > >at 5500 - something it didn't do before- hopefully problem
solved.</font></font>
> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I'm not saying anything.</font></font>
> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Meanwhile his sister Amy's Mazda
Capella
> > >(piston engine) has been reluctant to start when cold. It
pops
> > >and spits back as if it has a manifold leak, or is running lean.
> > >But as soon as it gets a tiny bit of heat in the engine it runs like a
> > >watch. I have swapped carbies, fitted a new coil, leads and
points,
> > >checked for leaks in the manifold. No change.</font></font> <font
face="Arial"><font size=-1>Any
> > >Suggestions anyone?</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I
had
> > >to smile as I was coming home from Melbourne tonight still towing the
tandem,
> > >with the Mazda leering at me in the rear view mirror. I was
supposed
> > >to be bringing the Datto home to fix, but a simple $4 part got it going
> > >well. However, $64 didn't fix the Mazda - typical. I wish
we
> > >had another 1600 for Amy.</font></font>
> > ><br>
> >
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