Paul,
The vac gauge jumping around at idle suggests that I'm on the right track
with the earlier email so definitely do a compression test as the idle vac
pulsing suggests a leak at the mani or an inlet valve not sealing correctly.
Brake booster - You don't need to pull the booster, just remove the vac hose
from the mani and block the hole on the outlet and start the engine to see
if that pulsing at idle is still present - my guess is that it will be but
you never know. To test a booster with the vac hose connected, with the
engine stopped push the brake pedal until it goes dead, push the pedal down
and start the engine. If the booster is holding vac the pedal should drop
slightly shortly after the engine fires.
Crank timing marks - the crank turns thru 720 degrees for the dizzy and the
cam to each turn thru 360 degrees so the 0 timing mark will show TDC on #1
or #4 depending on where in the cycle the cam is and therefore which
cylinder is on the compression stroke (i.e. both valves closed). This is why
an engine will still run with the dizzy out 180 degrees as long as the HT
leads on the dizzy cap are pointing to the cylinder that's on the
compression stroke. You don't really know the difference until you start
pulling things apart and it doesn't affect the operation of the engine (read
even if it's wrong it's not what's wrong with your engine). This means that
you can time a 4 cylinder engine on #1 or #4 or a 6 cylinder on #1 or #6 so
a L series engine is timed correctly if the front cylinder HT lead is on the
radiator side of the dizzy.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul W. J.
Stanley
Sent: Monday, 30 April 2001 9:54
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: The "Datsun Miss"
Thanks guys there are a few things you mentioned there that I havent looked
at. Terry, it's not a miss every cycle, but it's quite regular like 1 to 2
times per second. The exhaust is broken and it makes a loud rattle evrytime
so I know when it's missing (handy for almost deaf people like me). I havent
tested compression. The coolant does have a film of something on the surface
but it's not getting into the oil AFAIK that would cause the oil to turn
into "snot". I could very well be air getting into the manifold, the motor
is out of a newer 200B and it ran beautifully in that car.
The eccono-gauge ;-) reads fairly smooth when it's doing about 1500 RPM but
at 850 RPM idle (that I was able to set myself) the needle is jumping all
over the place in the 'idle' section of the gauge
So should I rip the brake booster off and plug it up and same with the
vacuum line (to test it?) . I think I will try that tomorrow if I can find
the ignition key to it...I lost it :(
Rick, by condensor you mean the thing in the dizzy? I put in a electronic
one, and I didn't recall seeing a condensor. The wierd thing is the miss is
exactly the same as with the old dizzy with burnt out points and the new
electronic one. So I am wondering whether is is electrical at all, since you
guys have mentioned mostly anything BUT electric.
There was also a capacity on the coil, is that to filter out interference
from the radio? I wouldn't know I ripped the radio out and replaced it with
4 gauges and a LED voltmetre (ooo sports dash ;-)
Another thing Terry, I turned the crank to 0 degrees and the rotor was
pointing to the firewall drivers side...and cylinder 1 is the firewall
cylinder. I tried it set to the standard Datsun way with cylinder 1 at the
radiator, and passenger headlight on the dizzy, and then 1-3-4-2
anticlockwise on the dizzy (my friend also told me to do it this way) and it
didnt start, just backfired. Has someone rebuilt this motor to non-Datsun
standards?
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