Right, thanks Terry, I will check the manifold.
I see now, 720 degrees, that makes sense now.
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Rudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 11:42 PM
Subject: RE: The "Datsun Miss"
> Paul,
>
> The vac gauge jumping around at idle suggests that I'm on the right track
> with the earlier email so definitely do a compression test as the idle vac
> pulsing suggests a leak at the mani or an inlet valve not sealing
correctly.
>
> Brake booster - You don't need to pull the booster, just remove the vac
hose
> from the mani and block the hole on the outlet and start the engine to see
> if that pulsing at idle is still present - my guess is that it will be but
> you never know. To test a booster with the vac hose connected, with the
> engine stopped push the brake pedal until it goes dead, push the pedal
down
> and start the engine. If the booster is holding vac the pedal should drop
> slightly shortly after the engine fires.
>
> Crank timing marks - the crank turns thru 720 degrees for the dizzy and
the
> cam to each turn thru 360 degrees so the 0 timing mark will show TDC on #1
> or #4 depending on where in the cycle the cam is and therefore which
> cylinder is on the compression stroke (i.e. both valves closed). This is
why
> an engine will still run with the dizzy out 180 degrees as long as the HT
> leads on the dizzy cap are pointing to the cylinder that's on the
> compression stroke. You don't really know the difference until you start
> pulling things apart and it doesn't affect the operation of the engine
(read
> even if it's wrong it's not what's wrong with your engine). This means
that
> you can time a 4 cylinder engine on #1 or #4 or a 6 cylinder on #1 or #6
so
> a L series engine is timed correctly if the front cylinder HT lead is on
the
> radiator side of the dizzy.
>
> regards
> Terry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul W. J.
> Stanley
> Sent: Monday, 30 April 2001 9:54
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: The "Datsun Miss"
>
>
> Thanks guys there are a few things you mentioned there that I havent
looked
> at. Terry, it's not a miss every cycle, but it's quite regular like 1 to 2
> times per second. The exhaust is broken and it makes a loud rattle
evrytime
> so I know when it's missing (handy for almost deaf people like me). I
havent
> tested compression. The coolant does have a film of something on the
surface
> but it's not getting into the oil AFAIK that would cause the oil to turn
> into "snot". I could very well be air getting into the manifold, the motor
> is out of a newer 200B and it ran beautifully in that car.
>
> The eccono-gauge ;-) reads fairly smooth when it's doing about 1500 RPM
but
> at 850 RPM idle (that I was able to set myself) the needle is jumping all
> over the place in the 'idle' section of the gauge
> So should I rip the brake booster off and plug it up and same with the
> vacuum line (to test it?) . I think I will try that tomorrow if I can find
> the ignition key to it...I lost it :(
>
>
> Rick, by condensor you mean the thing in the dizzy? I put in a electronic
> one, and I didn't recall seeing a condensor. The wierd thing is the miss
is
> exactly the same as with the old dizzy with burnt out points and the new
> electronic one. So I am wondering whether is is electrical at all, since
you
> guys have mentioned mostly anything BUT electric.
>
> There was also a capacity on the coil, is that to filter out interference
> from the radio? I wouldn't know I ripped the radio out and replaced it
with
> 4 gauges and a LED voltmetre (ooo sports dash ;-)
>
> Another thing Terry, I turned the crank to 0 degrees and the rotor was
> pointing to the firewall drivers side...and cylinder 1 is the firewall
> cylinder. I tried it set to the standard Datsun way with cylinder 1 at the
> radiator, and passenger headlight on the dizzy, and then 1-3-4-2
> anticlockwise on the dizzy (my friend also told me to do it this way) and
it
> didnt start, just backfired. Has someone rebuilt this motor to non-Datsun
> standards?
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
No unauthorised redistribution of this email
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
