the Z engines had a 15 degree lean to them from memory, compared to the L
series pretty much
in the upright position.  if you were to mount the L20 at the same angle the
Z-series are at you
can bolt the g/box crossmemner up, with difficulty. I slotted the holes in
the crossmember and used
some dirty big washers as reinforcement to top it off.  you need to bolt the
rubber mount to the gearbox
and then bolt the crossmember to the floor... althought the rubber mount is
then shaped like a wedge.
it is probably more advisable to get a Z - series gearbox to bolt up or
atleast the bell housing as it
allows for the angle of the motor but keeps the rest straight for the
crossmember.
as for the sump.... no idea... you could have yours cut and welded with a
new pan. or someone
else might have an idea

ryan



----- Original Message -----
From: "robert hall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 8:57 PM
Subject: z18


>
> hi, i am slowly starting to sort out  the problems with  my 1600.
>
>  has any one  ever put a L20b block fitted  with a Z18 head and factory
Z18
> fuel injection in a 1600.?
>  i have seen  pictures of a complete z18 engine in a 1600 and the inlet
manifold
> clears the shocker tower  by a few inches.
>  i am using std 1600 mounts, but when putting in my hybrid motor the
inlet
> manifold hits the drivers side shocker tower, and if i swap engine mounts
> around  the motor  leans towards the passenger side , that much that it is
> impossible to bolt the gearbox cross member up and the sump  is not level.
>
>
> do i have to  modify the shocker tower? any thing else i can do?
>
>
>      mark
>
>
>
>

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