|
thanks for all the info adam, been a great
help
yeah my point about the dyno run wasn't really
questioning the power at wheels, it was the amount of boost he ran to achieve
it
yes it is an optical style electronic
ignition
I believe he got it from a later model nissan
passenger van of some kind, just wasn't sure about how to tune it
will I have to get it modified to retard the timing
under boost?
the car was dyno tuned before the ignition went in,
would it be a good idea for me to get the car tuned again now the ignition is
in?
as for the turbo, it still has me confused, my past
2 cars have had T25's and my current pulsar had one for a while too before I
replaced it with the T28, I'm like 99% sure this is a T25G, it has the "Garret
AR.48" stamped on the compressor housing. The exhaust manifold definately
isn't a custom job it still has nissan factory stamping on it.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2001 12:55
PM
Subject: RE: Z18 questions
He may be getting 176HP (132kW) at
the wheels (about 150-160kw flywheel), but it isn't at 6psi (maybe 15-17PSI),
unless it was doing it at very high revs, too high. The exhaust manifold
may be one piece and look standard but the T25 will not bolt to the STD
exhaust manifold, unless the T25 has been modified to fit to the STD
manifold? Sounds like he has optical triggering electronic
ignition. It is just like a BB style one but the triggering is done via
a beam not a electrical/magnetic system. You can still adjust the static
timing by rotating the dizzy. To answer your original question. It
still sounds like a good buy for $1000.
-----Original Message-----
From: David
Costello [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: 22/11/2001
12:31
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Z18 questions
I've seen the dyno sheet for the 176@wheels so I
know he's not bullshitting I also no the guys who dyno'd it and I know they
wouldn't fudge the numbers on the sheet for him.
the exhaust
manifold is standard there's not even an adapter plate, and I had another
look today it is definately a T25
and I
saw the reciepts from when he got it highflowed with T28 compressor
wheel
it also has electronic ignition, but it's not the series 2 BB style,
it's the in dizzy type where the beam is broken by the dizzy shaft, do you
adjust the timing on this setup exactly the same way you do with points
style?
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: steven.taylor <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: Z18 questions
Does it have a set of extractors on it or has the
stand. exh mani been modified at all?? Is there a water feed running from
somewhere into the turbo?? If not , like adam said i doubt its a T25/28 as
the stand z18 used a T3 which is a complete diff bolt pattern. They never
came out with a T25 from factory....
As for the question of the head
ive had my head shaved 2 times on 2 different rebuilds and it still runs
up to 20psi no probs on the standard bottom end.As for how much boost you
can run that will depend on what injectors are in it and how hot the air
is thats getting pumped into it.
As for just bolting a L18 bottom end
onto it i dont see any particular point whatsoever. Unless you spend money
setting it up to handle a forced induction lifestyle, and then u may
aswell of used a z18 bottom end to start with.
As for power mine made
around 90kw@wheels@10psi in pretty standard form. 176hp@wheels sounds like
a crock of shit/attempted selling point to me.
Steve.
David Costello wrote:
it wasn't my choice to shave the head, they
had some problems with it and it was either shave the head or replace it
and he didn't have the money at the time..are Z18 head relatively
cheap/easy to find cause I'd be looking at replacing it. also he didn't downgrade
from a T3 down to the T28the motor had a T25 on it when it came in from
the importers, he upgraded it to a T28. I can't use a Z22 bottom
end cause the car it's going into is only just over 800kg which limits
me to a 2L with forced induction. I have a spare L18
bottom end here, can I just bolt that under the Z18 head, instead of
going to the trouble of stripping the current one down to inspect
it. Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Rowe, Adam <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday,
November 19, 2001 10:09 AM
Subject: RE: Z18
questions
** See comments.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Costello [ SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
Sent:
18/11/2001 19:18
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Z18 questions
thinking of buying a Z18 turbo just wanted
to check a few facts first
#1 the guy says it's still standard pistons
but the head has been shaved .040" ,what compression ratio would this
make.
**The STD ratio is 8.5:1.
As far as I know the head setup is good for 20psi with no problems of
detonation, everything else needs to be up to scratch. I wouldn't
be wanting a shaved head for turbo work though.
#2 how much boost can be run through a
standard Z18 (taking into consideration the head shave) wolf 2d
computer, T28 and no intercooler. he said it's never been taken
above 10psi.
**Why does it have a T28?
If the turbo is not of the T3 style then the intake and exhaust plumbing
would be different. Hard to see why they would do that, as there
is nothing wrong with a good T3 setup. The limit is around 10psi
with no intercooler, but you need to be careful of detonation. The
factory boost is set to ~7psi.
#3 the car made 176hp @ wheels on 6psi, is
this fairly average for a Z18? sounds fairly high for 6psi.
**I don't think so. Not unless it was doing
10,500rpm. Factory boost gets you 108kw at flywheel at
5,500rpm.
#4 a bottom end bearing has gone, would the
most cost effective option be replacing the bearing, or just dropping
in an L20 bottom end?
**If one of the bearings is gone, then you will have to strip it
down to check what else has gone. Seems strange for just one
bearing to wear out prematurely unless there was problem with the
rebuild or oil problems. The L20B pistons will need to be flycut
for the valves. Try a Z22 bottom end.
my plan was to get a Z18 and put the L20
bottom end under it, I was interested in this one cause of the price
(just over a grand for the complete stanza) but I'm thinking now that
if the head on it's shaved I'm gunna be up for another head later if I
wanna reduce compression, so maybe there's no point buying this.
Or is it still good for the price, considering I'd get the T28,
Wold2d, manifolds etc etc.
Dave
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