hi, 2-pak aint that bad , with the  amount of 2-pak fumes  i`ve breathed in
i should be dead...............cough, cough..

since you should really wear a mask when painting anyway,  just get a mask
suitable for 2pak spraying?


 mark k


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Abraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: DIY Re-Painting


> Thanks for the advice guys,
> I am off to the shops tomorrow to get the gear.
>
> Is a $300, 2.5Hp compressor with 40Litre tank going to be suitable?
> There seems to be a big jump in price between 40 and 50 Litre tanks
> Also, what is the best type of spray gun to get?
>
> In keeping with the DIY backyard approach, I will go for Acrylic paint
with
> a clear top coat, as it seems that 2 Pack is a bit dangerous and could
kill
> a brown dog at 40 feet...or something.
> What is the gloss of Acrylic like with clear top coat? The archives
mention
> that it will need regular polishing to stay glossy, so the engine bay and
> door surrounds will probably look a bit ordinary after a short while.
> Are there any techniques to get a durable long lasting gloss finish?
>
> Regards,
> Nick
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R.Gregory" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:36 AM
> Subject: Re: DIY Re-Painting
>
>
> > Totally agree with "FJ Man" - just have a go.
> > I have just painted my first ever car (my rally car, non Datto) with
> acrylic
> > laquer (BMW Arctic Silver metallic), with clear top coat. Acrylic is
very
> > forgiving to use, esp first time user.
> > My gear same as FJ Man's - need at least 2.5  to 3 hp compressor to keep
> up.
> >
> > Spend time on preparation - cant hide faults with paint !
> > If existing paint is good, no need to strip back to metal. Give good
> sanding
> > with 240 wet & dry, then 3-4 coats of primer filler ( dilute to about
75%
> > thinner to 25% primer and spray on wet coats (ie gun quite close to
panel,
> > otherwise goes on half dry and gives coarse powdery texture). Use 55psi
at
> > this dilution.
> > Wet & dry 240 to get smooth surface.
> > I sprayed on 5 coats silver. If you are finding imperfections can wet &
> dry
> > 1200 between coats as necessary, except for last coat before clear coat.
> Use
> > 55 psi. Set fan quite wide and overlap each stroke by 50%. Alternate
coats
> > at 90 degrees to previous coat.
> > I sprayed on 3 coats clear coat ( 55psi), left it two days then 1200
wet&
> > dry before cutting (reduces amount of cutting needed) Really pleased
with
> > result. Use electric buffer for cutting, with damp sponge buffer and
> cutting
> > compound, running at low speed to prevent burning of new paint.
> >
> > Polish with wax polish rather than silicone.
> > Incidentally, dont let anyone within a kilometer of your car with
silicone
> > spray while painting. Windscreen guy used some to fit  screen and drift
> > landed on car before I had finished top coat on one guard - causes havoc
> > (fish eyes) when spray next coat !!
> >
> > If weather very humid, add up to 10% Retardant to slow drying a little
and
> > prevent blooming ( white haze in paint as dries). One painter told me
he
> > always adds a little Retardant to slow drying to get consistantly good
> > finish.
> >
> > So, that worked for me .
> > Any comments from the experts ?
> >
> > Cheers
> > Rick
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "FJ MAN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 11:54 PM
> > Subject: Re: DIY Re-Painting
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Id definately have a go yaself
> > > I'm currently doing my own right now and so far im up to 800 bucks,
but
> > > thats including everything
> > > group 4 paint (custom blue)4 litres
> > > filters, top of the range gravity fed gun, 3hp 50 litre compressor,
hose
> > and
> > > attachments, 20 litres of thinners, 4 litres of clear and 3 litres of
> > primer
> > > surfacer and fillers, metal mend spot putty and sand paper . With the
> > effort
> > > im hoping to put in it should all be worth it :). After rubbin it back
> and
> > > applying the primer im pretty happy and i was pretty lucky the car was
> > > straight first but my honest opinion have a crack yaself, that way you
> can
> > > put in the effort to the get the right result for the right price and
> > theres
> > > plenty of info on the list here (richard clough is the man i think :)
> > > regards chris
> > > s
> > > >From: "Ken Abraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > >To: "ozdat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > >Subject: DIY Re-Painting
> > > >Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 21:00:02 +1100
> > > >
> > > >Hi again listers,
> > > >
> > > >I have been very slowly trying to organise a 'quality' respray - it
> will
> > > >cost about $2K.
> > > >Realistically, the whole car is not worth $2,000, even with 12 months
> > rego
> > > >and a full tank of fuel!
> > > >
> > > >So I have decided, for a laugh, to have a go myself.
> > > >Can any one offer any hints?
> > > >
> > > >What are the differences between Acrylic Laquer and 2 pack enamel
> paints?
> > > >What type of compressor and spray gun do I need, CFM rating etc..
> > > >What is the difference between all the primers, i.e etch, surfacer,
> > > >filler???
> > > >What temperature do you need to 'bake' 2 Pack enamel.
> > > >
> > > >The car is painted a particular colour (scarlet) that is not
standard.
> I
> > > >like it and would like to repaint it the same colour.
> > > >I can get the paint colour matched, but is there a colour chart or
> > > >something so I can check that it is not a standard colour for another
> > type
> > > >of car?
> > > >
> > > >Thanks heaps,
> > > >Nick
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

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