Hi Brodie, I've got a Datto 510 with a S13 180SX SR20DET and 5 Speed. I looked at a few motor options before I decided on this one. I considered FJ20DET, L20/Z18 Turbo mix & Mazda 12a Turbo. I didn't consider a 1.8 litre engine due to reduced offboost performance.
After speaking to importers, I found that it's not that easy to get a FJ20, Z18 or 12a Turbo anymore with low mileage (around 40-50thou kays). The cost of rebuilding one of these engines and/or turbos would likely bring the price over the cost of an SR20DET. The SR20DET is light, all alloy engine and 5 speed gearbox that's tougher and smoother than any of the other nissan 4-cyl turbo boxes. Engine is oh so smooth, revs to 7,500rpm as standard, came with 40,000kms. I'm running 14psi boost with the standard turbo using supra intercooler, and there's smiles all round. The FJ20 is a really tough motor, bullet-proof like the GTR's RB26DETT, but it's got a lot to do with the cast iron block. It's a real heavy motor, and will have a negative effect on the handling of your Datto. On the other hand if you are more interested in straight line performance, this motor can handle 600HP+ cheaper than an SR20DET, but that's not a streetable motor. L20's are cheap to build, and with some Z18 parts can be turbocharged cheaply, but lack the finesse of a late model engine. These motors have an agricultural heritage, and will require a lot more R&D work to get a smooth streetable high horsepower motor than something that was designed to be fuel injected, electronic ignition, turboed, etc... Others may disagree, that's fine. I converted my Mazda RX4 302 windsor powered coupe from Carb to Haltech Injection, and points to electronic, and if I did it again, I would have sold the motor and bought a US Import Mustang HO motor with low kays, would have cost me less I reckon. Really, the choice of motor doesn't alter the cost of the "turbo motor conversion" that much. The difference between the FJ20, CA18, and SR20 conversion kits aren't more than $100-$200. The difficulty is not really significant either. The costs to consider are when you start to connect it all up and get the rest of the car capable of handling the power. R180 of R200 LSD, Vented disks for the front, suspension front and rear, intercooler, hoses, clamps, plumbing, larger radiator (alloy often required), engine management, 2.5" or 3" exhaust, heat shielding, wiring, dyno time, 3" tailshaft, engineers certificate, etc... and there is always about 3 times more things to get ($$$$) than planned for. So draw up a plan, estimate costs based on real prices quoted, and you should be able to work out the minimum required to get the conversion done for. Good luck, - Jeremy -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, 14 January 2002 1:39 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SR/CA/FJ into 810. Hi listers, I've been looking at doing a conversion for some time and now have the $$$ to begin. However I'm still yet to decide on which engine I want. I have been told the SR20DET is a fairly simple fitment but the CA/FJ's are a little more difficult (read: costly). What's needed in these swaps? Will any dat performance shop make up a fitting kit like you can get for the 510's? Would I be better off turboing the L20B? Anyone know of any turbo setups for sale/around for the L's? Your opinions? Any advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated! Yours, Brodie. --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
