I'd go with Geordie on that and say a bush would be the problem.
Ideally both castors would be even and could be made so with some shimming.
The problem is the camber change as caster is changed, if you don't have
camber adjustment available.

The Biessbarth aligners are the duckies guts and extremely accurate. They
are good for showing up these little variations.
If you want to get the rear end spot on you could do a conversion and fit
Toyota eccentric shafts to the rear arms. The outer is used to change toe
and the inner for camber.

There are plenty of ways to fix the front camber.

Cheers
Feral Errol
Get Serious! http://www.datrats.com.au/

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 10:31 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Rear alignment settings

It's most likely going to be a stuffed bush.
Jack it up and jam a bar behind it and see if it moves when you lever it..

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Greenbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 7:17 PM
Subject: Rear alignment settings


> Hi guys,
>
> Got a wheel alignment done the other day, and they measured the rear
> settings as well. The printout is at (apologies for dodgy scan):
> http://opax.swin.edu.au/~agreenbury/wheelalign.jpg
>
> The rear left toe out measurement is troubling at 5.7mm toe out vs only
> 0.3mm toe out on the right. Could stuffed A-arm bushes be the cause
> of this big difference, or is damage to the actual arm more likely?? The
> arms themselves seem beefy especially compared to suspension links
> used on modern cars?
>
> Is the difference in front caster also cause for concern?
>
> Thanks for any advice,
> Andrew
>
>
>
>
>
>



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