Don,
I think you said you had already resoldered the side connectors on the
push button control board. However, I have already misinterpreted this
thread once (c:..
I have removed the fan in a 126 and multiple 123's. I remember it
being something along the line of 'pull off the knee bolster on the
passenger side and then unbolt the three or four screws that hold in
the motor flange'. The motor is attached to a flange around 10 inches
in diameter or so, and is hanging there in plain sight once you undo
the bolster. I dont believe the 126 was any worse than the 123's that
I have done (really simple, unbolt, unplug power and remove), but I've
slept since then.
Then you have to make the decision about replacing the fan motor if
found bad, or putting new brushes in it. Our friend George Murphy has
the brushes, and I am SURE that if he has them there are multiple other
sources as well.. (c: New motors are expensive. So you may want to
talk to your local motor rebuilder if budget is an issue.
Richard
K4PKV
--- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The defrost mode does not force the fan on (this one, now - it should
> though). If it's not ready to turn on, nothing I do has any effect.
> Once it starts, it runs just fine. I've not had the full heat
> experience since that one time (knocking on wood). Relays? Brushes?
> How do you get the fan motor (I know -RTFM).
>
>
> >
> > YES, but once the fan starts in defrost, you can switch to another
> mode
> > and the fan will keep running (if it's the engine temp lockout
> that's
> > preventing fan action).
> >
> > Marshall
> > --
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '87 300SDL
> '81 240D
> '78 450SLC
>
>
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