Yes, i do see the cross marks, although the marks in #1 do seem slightly fainter than the rest of the cylinders, at least to the naked eye.

Loren Faeth wrote:
If I am assessing your measurements correctly, you are getting readings under the nominal bore size? (negative) that seems odd. If your numbers are in thousandths of a MM, then i think Mitch is right. Probably not much to get worried about. Can you see crosshatching on the cylinder walls? if so, your bore is NOT worn. If not, the bore is worn where the crosshatch is no longer evident. I have never used digital gauges, butif it is worn badly, you should be able to tell with the naked eye. if wear is only 0.020mm, or less, I don't see much concern. THe ridge on the bore or the crosshatch will tell you most of the story.

I know in the past, pistons were binned according to actual dia, and blocks were stamped with actual bore. Thus, the actual bore was fit with a piston with the exact clearance. My 621 short block was actually nominal .5mm overbore. each hole was stamped something like ,47 indicating 87.47 mm bore for a nominal 87.5 mm. the Piston tops were also stamped with the exact dia. I don't know if they still use this practice. If the deck of your block has numbers stamped by each hole, then pay attention, because that will tell you the exact bore size when it was new.

IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1. It is bent enough so that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you don't address the #1 rod at least. Seems to me what you describe is in the neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.

Until you can get the same measurement repeatedly, you have more gauge error or operator error than actual wear. When I did compression tests on the SDL you now have, I used both an snappy gauge and the HF gauge until I was sure where the variation was coming from. (carbon on valves and the HF gauge) THen I settled on the Snappy gauge, and got consistent results. (One place where the HF tool is not up to par.) To be fair, my cheap one was from some online place, not HF, but the HF one at the time was essentially the same design.


At 10:12 PM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
No, have not put a depth guage on the piston tops, or inspected the rod. I do not have a depth gauge, where would you get such an item? About the most I have checked on the deck height is when #1 is at the top, if you run your fingernail for example from piston to block, it will catch, on the others, it will catch when you go the other way from block to piston. In other words, just from the naked eye, #1 does sit just a very very small amount lower than the rest. If its enough to matter, I do not know.

Mitch Haley wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
.422       .398

So, your bore gage reads in mm, and it does two point measuring so you can measure along the crank and across the crank? And the above is the worst you have, with across the crank being .024mm wider? If that were .024", you'd have junk. .024mm is just under .001", which doesn't sound like much to me, but might be a lot for a diesel. I was recently looking at the spec on dad's 2 stroke outboard, and max out of round to reassemble without boring it was .003".

It did come out as expected/feared, with #1 being the most worn. Have you inspected #1 rod? Or at least put a depth gage on the piston tops?

Mitch.


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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com


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Loren Faeth

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
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