I did it at 180,000 miles. Just replaced the one rod. I now attribute
the bent rod to hydrolock in that cylinder due to failure of the head
gasket that allowed oil to enter the cylinder (oil-lock?). Given that
the piston protrudes from the head when at the top of it's stroke and
compress everything down to less than the thickness of the head
gasket, just a bit of oil seeping in could really mess things up. At
first I thought I had a turbo failure. If I had pulled the head right
away rather than screwing around with the turbo, it probably would
have been fine.

I played around with a dial indicator to try to measure roundness, but
did not detect anything significant. That was probably due to a
combination of user-error and cheap tools. All the cross hatches
looked fine.

The guy that told me about replacing #1 and #6 was a tech at a GM
dealership. 50/50 chance he was full of it.

-Dave Walton


On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 7:21 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net> wrote:
> Did you replace number one and number 6?  Or just 1?  Were your cylinders
> ovalled at all?  How many miles were on the engine?  Maybe I caught mine in
> time before it really trashed the bottom end.
>
> dave walton wrote:
>>
>> The replacement rod did not have tabs to allow easy weight adjustment.
>> It is significantly heaver than the original. I've since been told
>> that as long as #1 and #6 are balanced, it's okay if they are heaver
>> than the others. I'd want to very that somehow, but replacing the two
>> rods would save some grief. The dealer said if they did the job, they
>> would replace all the rods. I was not in the mood to spend $1k to
>> replace good parts at the time. But you could probably recoup some of
>> your investment selling the good old ones on eBay :-)
>>
>> Once the rod was replaced, the piston extended above the block like
>> all the others.
>>
>> Put some bar stock on the block across the cylinder opening. Use 2
>> magnetic bases. Mount the dial gauge between them on a crosspiece. Set
>> the gauge to zero on top of the bar in the middle. Highest reading
>> when the crank is rotated gives you a comparison number which relates
>> to connecting rod length.
>>
>> -Dave Walton
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 10:41 AM, dave walton <walton.d...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I did not see any way to drop the oil pan with the engine in the car.
>>> The front frame is directly under where you want to get to and can't
>>> be removed (without a torch or plasma cutter). If anyone knows how to
>>> avoid pulling the engine, please speak up.
>>>
>>> Once you get the oil pan off you can access the lower end of the
>>> connecting rod to replace it without pulling the crank.
>>>
>>> The transmission and engine come out as a unit.
>>>
>>> You will need a 2-ton shop crane. To access the center of gravity of
>>> the engine/transmission unit you need to extend the arm to it's
>>> maximum. The lift capacity goes down as the arm length goes up. Even
>>> with the Harbor Freight 2-ton crane maxed, the lift cylinder wanted to
>>> hit against the front bumper. If I had to do it again, I'd use a
>>> gantry crane on wheels.
>>>
>>> I was quoted $140 from the dealer for the replacement rod. They
>>> charged me $190 when it came in.
>>>
>>> -Dave Walton
>>>
>>> On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank and
>>>> everything wouldnt I?
>>>> Mitch Haley wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Loren Faeth wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1.  It is bent enough so
>>>>>> that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you
>>>>>> don't
>>>>>> address the #1 rod at least.  Seems to me what you describe is in the
>>>>>> neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is
>>>>> recessed, and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong with
>>>>> that
>>>>> one cylinder.
>>>>> When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same
>>>>> one
>>>>> with the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for bending its
>>>>> rod,
>>>>> I'd say replace that rod and hope you caught it quick enough so that
>>>>> cylinder still seals ok. If one cylinder out of six makes 95% of the
>>>>> power
>>>>> of the others, the engine as a whole shouldn't run too badly.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mitch.
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________
>>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>>>>>
>>>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>>> 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89
>>>> 560SEL,
>>>> 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny,
>>>> 81
>>>> 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
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>>>> _______________________________________
>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>>
>>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
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>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
> 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
> 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
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