Did you replace number one and number 6? Or just 1? Were your
cylinders ovalled at all? How many miles were on the engine? Maybe I
caught mine in time before it really trashed the bottom end.
dave walton wrote:
The replacement rod did not have tabs to allow easy weight adjustment.
It is significantly heaver than the original. I've since been told
that as long as #1 and #6 are balanced, it's okay if they are heaver
than the others. I'd want to very that somehow, but replacing the two
rods would save some grief. The dealer said if they did the job, they
would replace all the rods. I was not in the mood to spend $1k to
replace good parts at the time. But you could probably recoup some of
your investment selling the good old ones on eBay :-)
Once the rod was replaced, the piston extended above the block like
all the others.
Put some bar stock on the block across the cylinder opening. Use 2
magnetic bases. Mount the dial gauge between them on a crosspiece. Set
the gauge to zero on top of the bar in the middle. Highest reading
when the crank is rotated gives you a comparison number which relates
to connecting rod length.
-Dave Walton
On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 10:41 AM, dave walton <walton.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
I did not see any way to drop the oil pan with the engine in the car.
The front frame is directly under where you want to get to and can't
be removed (without a torch or plasma cutter). If anyone knows how to
avoid pulling the engine, please speak up.
Once you get the oil pan off you can access the lower end of the
connecting rod to replace it without pulling the crank.
The transmission and engine come out as a unit.
You will need a 2-ton shop crane. To access the center of gravity of
the engine/transmission unit you need to extend the arm to it's
maximum. The lift capacity goes down as the arm length goes up. Even
with the Harbor Freight 2-ton crane maxed, the lift cylinder wanted to
hit against the front bumper. If I had to do it again, I'd use a
gantry crane on wheels.
I was quoted $140 from the dealer for the replacement rod. They
charged me $190 when it came in.
-Dave Walton
On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net> wrote:
If I wanted to replace that one rod, I would have to pull the crank and
everything wouldnt I?
Mitch Haley wrote:
Loren Faeth wrote:
IMHO, you have a problem with a bent rod on #1. It is bent enough so
that I predict a short life after the engine is running again , if you don't
address the #1 rod at least. Seems to me what you describe is in the
neighborhood of 0.010 inch or so, (maybe more) and that is a problem.
I concur. If five pistons stand proud of the block, and one piston is
recessed, and you can detect that by feel, there's something wrong with that
one cylinder.
When you add to that the fact that the most worn cylinder is the same one
with the short rod, and it's the cylinder that's famous for bending its rod,
I'd say replace that rod and hope you caught it quick enough so that
cylinder still seals ok. If one cylinder out of six makes 95% of the power
of the others, the engine as a whole shouldn't run too badly.
Mitch.
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87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
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_______________________________________
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com
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