I have no expertise on the subject, but have some experience in drilling and
installing anchors in concrete (about a year working as a steamfitter/rigger
on a powerhouse).

I installed some aluminum bars on the floor of my garage as
positioners/stops for ramps.  I was surprised to see that the concrete floor
was not very substantial, less than an inch.  Unless there is a
substantially thick floor, I would think a better footing would be required.
I would think a manufacturer of the lift could tell you what is required.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Strasfogel
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 10:39 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Home garage lift

I am worreid about  the car and lift crashing down on me due to faulty
installation.

How is the lift safely bolted to the cement floor?  Whom would I hire that
does this sort of  work properly?  Is there a special skill involved?

On Mon, Sep 9, 2013 at 1:28 PM, Andrew Strasfogel
<astrasfo...@gmail.com>wrote:

> Thanks, Mitch.  I would rather avoid any of those"d'oh" moments.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 9, 2013 at 11:16 AM, Mitch Haley <m...@voyager.net> wrote:
>
>> Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone on the list installed one of these?  I am in the process 
>>> of preparing to sell and move out of my DC home.  My current garage 
>>> has a flat  roof, making it a poor candidate for a lift.
>>>
>>> A house I have bewen looking to purchase (once the current one has 
>>> sold) has a detached, single door 2 car garage with a peaked roof, 
>>> tall enough for a hydraulic lift.
>>>
>>
>> Usually "tall enough" is considered 12-13' high.
>> When you mention the peak, it sounds like you are planning on lifting 
>> the car above the side walls. That implies you have rafters and no 
>> ceiling, or if you have trusses you intend to heavily modify a few 
>> trusses to make a hole to shove the car roof up into. That would be 
>> more work to make room for a wagon up there than a sedan or a coupe.
>>
>> Make note of how far into the garage the overhead door intrudes when 
>> it's open.
>> You have to be able to raise the garage door without hitting the 
>> lift, and your life will be a lot easier if you can raise the garage 
>> door without hitting a car that's on the lift.
>>
>> Anything you can buy will easily lift a S123.
>> Here are some examples:
>> http://www.gregsmithequipment.**com/2-Post-Lifts<http://www.gregsmith
>> equipment.com/2-Post-Lifts>
>>
>> If you can find a used name brand, like Snap-On, BendPak, or Rotary 
>> for the price of the low end Chinese stuff I'd go with the used one, 
>> but there's probably nothing wrong with a new $1500 lift, especially 
>> for occasional home use.
>>
>> Mitch.
>>
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>
>
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