I compressed the pistons on both sides with a C-clamp, one side had
quite a bit of clearance when I put the new pads/rotor on, the other one
seemed compressed all the way (at least it would not go any further and
there was not much of the pistons showing) but was a really tight fit (I
had to persuade it a bit).
I have the ABS fuse pulled as the control unit failed with the motor
"on" and it was draining the battery. I tried to get at the controller
as it appears a resoldering will fix it, but the thing is just about
inaccessible, right about a frame rail under the body floor under driver
seat. Hoses look OK but I was thinking I should probably change those
too. I have to do another 100k service now at 200k miles, so brake
fluid change is on that list.
---R
On 2/10/14 8:44 AM, arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:
On 2/9/2014 9:01 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
I replaced the rear rotors and pads on the Suburban, one set of pads
had plum woe out and metal on metal was Not Good. That side was
extremely difficult to get the pads and caliper back on --too tight
--, and during my drive to bed them in a bit it is very clearly
dragging and stinking like crazy and hot. I could spin the wheel
but it was hard, so I am thinking it just needs to wear down the
pads a bit? I had fully compressed the pistons so not sure what the
problem was. The other one went on fine with a bit of clearance,
both rotors appear to be the same but I am thinking I should measure
them and make sure the one is the proper thickness. Any ideas?
--R
Had that happen a number of years ago. Turned out that the piston did
not fully retract and it wasn't obviously visually. Ever since then I
use a C-clamp to push in the piston; tightening it slowly and keeping
it in the center of the piston.
Gerry
bad hose or bad abs?
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